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3010 John Deere Diesel

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Need some help here guys, no one seems to answer my questions so I will try here. I have a 1962 3010 that belonged to my late Father. Pump leaks on start up, one remote leaks, load bar leaks and the brake cylinder. Engine was reworked in 2010. The local dealer is really asking stupid money for parts, I find them on line for less than half what the dealer wants. Dealer offered me $1500 for a trade and I don't get much more on offers. I am kind of new with tractors but It don't seem there are any new ones offered that equal this one. I think the old girl would pull a Battle ship if you tried. It has all the body panels and no rust so would you suggest just fixing her and go or take my chances with something new? I am not sure but I think with a little TLC it will be around in 2050. Any Ideas?
 
All those thing will fix and stay repaired, it"s just a matter of dealing with each component as you can,,load shaft seals are a good place to start, they will leak "all" the time, using it or not, the brake valve is easy to remove and if you want you can send it out for repair,,I do them a lot here, the pump is ornery to get out, and the same there you can get some one to reseal it,, I do those here too, and I bench test them to prove them as well as the remote coupler.. If you like the old Gal, i would keep her and dry the leaks up..
 
It sounds like everyone you see for sale as they all need a lot of work to get them back into shape. At least yours starts and runs so it sounds like ? And if so being a diesel I would guess it could be worth $ 4,000 to $ 6,000 all day long depending on appearance and tires and if a wide front end. You could get $ 1,500 out of the worst case complete junk locked up parts tractor.

Has a family connection so get a factory service manual and read up and with the help from guys here you can fix it yourself. And guys like Tim S
have a shop and do this all the time and even accept repairs on components as he built a test bench for them. No need to find a local guy that may or may not know as we got some right here that DO KNOW they can fix it.
 
Not trying to start a brand war on the Deere forum,but I had one of those. There weren't enough days in the week to keep that tractor in decent repair. I finally found a jockey who had an Oliver 1600 gas sitting on the lot. It was in desperate need of an overhaul. I traded him even money and I hauled them. That was over 13 years ago and I've been doing the happy dance every since. It sure wasn't the only Deere I've ever owned,but it was by far the worst one.
 
Ive got one Im the second owner on and I really like it , it dose have a couple leaks , nothing major, if you repace the load seals also replace the shaft for they are usuallly worn as well.
 
Having no dog in the hunt, you have the best guys on here giving you advice, I would trust them.
 
Either you got the only bad one Deere built or are the only one willing to admit it ! LOL.

Either way I really have not heard too many horror stories about the 3010.
 

I've never heard too many complaints about 3010s either, except for the gas burners which were kind of cold blooded, gutless wonders.
I think that your Deere dealer just doesn't want to mess with it. I have been looking for a 3010/20 4010/20 fixer upper for quite awhile and rarely see anything at auctions, that runs for less than $3500.
 
Thanks for this info guys. This old gal is by no means a basket case, just needs some leaks dried up! It will start and run all day, everyday, just leaks. I would like to replace the original fuel filter and bracket but I have no idea what it looks like or where to find one. I also have a John Deere service manual for 3000 series Tractors #sm-2038 that is worth its weight in gold. I think I can do the repairs ok but I might chicken out on the pump, thats not a bad leak at all and it can wait a while. I must admit, I have been ornery. I pulled my neighbors Mahindra around the property some just to show him I could. He is kinda upset but now I don't have to hear what a great piece he owns. Think I will keep the Green money pit and save it for the Grandson.
 
It was your dad's tractor so I would keep it if it was me. I would not get discouraged as some dealers regardless of brand just do not want to be bothered with something that old. The local New Holland dealer runs as many tractors through the auction circuit as the Deere dealer does. Just the way it is nowadays. At the same time I don't know if you have a limit as far as what you are willing to spend or can afford to spend? If you could not afford to square it up that would be an argument to take it to a consignment auction and see where the chips fall. If you consider yourself a good equipment operator or are just keeping for a momento then there is no reason the tractor would not last for decades more especially if it can be kept inside. Running it at a plow day would keep the engine from developing issues from being underworked such as slobbering fuel at the exhaust manifold.
 
A lot of 3010"s need repair because they have done a lot of work over the years, they were the right size for the average farm back then..
 
I'm not going to lie to you about any tractor I ever had,no matter what color. I couldn't believe my eyes the first time I saw anybody criticize a 4040 in any way. I bought a new one and loved that tractor. I bought a 1020 gas in 81. Had it until last weekend. I'd recommend a 1020 gas to anybody and everybody wanting a utility tractor that size. If I couldn't destroy that tractor in all those years doing loader work,you can't destroy one.
On the other hand,I had a late 730 diesel,a 1960. The only tractors I ever had that were worse were the 3010 diesel and a Farmall 706 diesel. There was a good reason why there were 15-20 730 diesels at the auction in Archbold every other week after the New Gen tractors came out. Dealers couldn't give away the ones that were traded in. Nicest looking 2 cylinder ever,but that's the best thing I'll ever be able to say about them.
 
If it was mine, I would fix it and keep it around. We have two 3020 diesels, and they do a lot of work on our place. They are very handy for chore tractors, and we also use ours for field work. They each have over 10,000 hours, and aren't leaving here anytime soon.
 
Unless your mind is made up, keep that tractor and repair it. If you let it go, you'll wish later that you still had "Dad's tractor".
 
Some careful study of the free parts book at jdparts.com should produce an image of the original filter set up.I think those were metal cans. That book may also show a factory kit to change it over to the square glass type filter. If you have this it was an upgrade as it made service way easier with less leakage.
 
They were 2 cans on top of each other,hard to get to seal up, I think I have a couple take-offs here some where..
 
(quoted from post at 22:09:03 04/11/14) Some careful study of the free parts book at jdparts.com should produce an image of the original filter set up.I think those were metal cans. That book may also show a factory kit to change it over to the square glass type filter. If you have this it was an upgrade as it made service way easier with less leakage.
Click to expand...

Here's the kit for rectangular fuel filter for a 3020 but I didn't find a kit for 3010.
AR55220 KIT 1 - 128119
AR55221 KIT 1 128120 -
mvphoto6006.gif

Although I prefer the rectangular filter I think this filter base could be acquired from a salvage yard a lot cheaper.
mvphoto6009.gif
 
Another rookie question guys, I have 2 new load control bushings with "0" ring and a new load bar. Before I beat the old bar out and make the repair, is there anything I should watch for or is this a pretty straight forward repair? My manual shows other bushings but I have not found any on line. Are there other things I should replace while I have things down?
 

Drain hyd oil. Check sump screen for cleanliness. Put L/D lever under seat in "D" Load control shaft should slide out with minor tapping with a hammer. Inspect load control shaft for wear.
 
Almost all 3010 and 4010 fuel filters leak.I would buy a base off a 4020 and change it over to the spin on style or you can spend a little more and get the square glass style.I have changed several 3010-4010's over.
 
Yes Tom,, that is why I have a couple take-offs here, the square glass ones are much better, some did not change their filters enough in the past because they were too hard to seal up...
 
I have the new bushings with 0 rings inside. There are also two oil
seals and a cap. I am missing one cap and my John Deere Dealer
and parts Dept. are totally clueless about the seal and cap. Would
you know any part numbers? My manual does not list them. This is load shaft bushings and seals-3010
 
Is the cap you're referring to parts key #14? If so it's R33884 Retainer ADD 37.11 USD
mvphoto6291.gif

Seals(parts key #18) should be the following parts.
2 ea-AR27371 Seal View/Update 11.78 USD 23.56 USD
2 ea-R28961 Washer View/Update 0.75 USD
mvphoto6292.gif
 
I listed the part numbers. Just copy part numbers and present them to a JD dealer. You could order the seals from this site under tractor parts. Parts for Farm Tractors - Compare our Prices!
Click Here or call 800-853-2651
mvphoto6294.jpg
 
Thanks, txjim. My JD dealer didn't have the seals but could get them for me in a week at $15.95 each. I ordered from here on the forum. I also gave him the Part number for the retainer and he brought out a gear for some sort of corn machinery. LOL! Thats the way things go when you live in Podunkville USA. I have NO doubt #R33884 is a retainer for my 3010. I did not argue I just went on my way. I will search for parts from this site from now on!
 
3010 Update. I now have the leaks dry on "Dads" 3010, except for a small one at the pump. It only seems to leak at start up or while sitting at idle. I will deal with this at a later date. Thank you Txjim and TimS and others on this forum, you have been a great help to me! I will have more Rookie questions in the future and I know this is the place to go for answers. :D
 
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