It wasn't a hard job to do, the axle housings come off easily and I used a roll-around engine hoist to support it. I made a puller out of a thick aluminum plate with three holes, 2 of them 5 1/2 inches apart and one between them and used 1/2 inch ready rod. Pulled the drum/bearing right off. Took a while to clean all of the greasy residue from the pieces and R&R the brake shoes. I had pulled the axle out of the housing to repack the outer bearing and replace the felts. (dig the felt out of the housing and then use a crow foot to pry out the retainer.) I found out that I needed to leave the outer bearing cap loose by a wide margin when I replaced the housing assembly to the tractor case. With the bearing cap tight I slipped the axle housing in place and jiggled the heck out of it as if I was pushing on a transmission in my old Chevy, to no avail. Finally I backed off the bearing cap a half inch and it slid in place. Tightened the bolts to the tractor case and then tightened the bolts to the bearing, but the axle would not turn by hand. Loosened them and it turned. Tightened and it didn't. Took a BFH and rapped the end of the axle twice and it turned like it should.
I did one side at the time... after learning on side one, side two went easier. Be sure you are careful when driving in the new oil seals as they are the failure point for these brakes. Also... there is a seal of sorts between the brake drum and the H442R bearing spacer on mine which is not shown in the parts pic. Put a bead of silicone or other suitable material around the output shaft between the drum and the spacer. (this spacer rides on the oil seal. the silicone will seal the splines) Also... there is a weep hole in the case next to the bottom bolt hole that needs to be clean.
All in all it wasn't a hard job, I'm just getting too doggone old to crawl around on that concrete shop floor two days in a row anymore. Should have done it ten years ago, when I bought the brake linings.
At least now the grandkids can drive it around and it has BRAKES!