Stupid B rant

thdrduck · Apr 10, 2014

Just to vent...picked up a 39 B last fall just to get going and use for hay rides. It has all new rubber and the tin is in pretty good shape. My thought at the auction was that no one would put new rubber on junk so I took the gamble, gave $800 for it. It seems that anything that had a wrench or screw driver put to it is screwed up and I have spent all my time so far un-
#%&*@ up other peoples so called repairs. Yesterday I dumped a gallon of diesel in the crank case and 3 gallons in the gear case, was going to drag it around to flush it all out. I have a steady drip coming from where the trans bolts to the rear end at the bottom by the draw bar mounts. My hope is that gear oil is so thick that the drip should slow way down and just be something to keep an eye on. It sure doesn't look like there is any "easy" fix to it. There must be a gasket there and I sure don't see myself splitting this money pit to change it.

Scott, ------ in Wisconsin :x

Richard in Bee · Apr 10, 2014

Welcome to the wonderful world of tractor restoration.

I would bet that most people on this board have a similar story, not that that is going to make you feel any better.

Richard in Bee · Apr 10, 2014

Welcome to the wonderful world of tractor restoration.

I would bet that most people on this board have a similar story, not that that is going to make you feel any better.

David G · Apr 10, 2014

I agree, welcome to the world of restoration.

The Diesel will leak out where the lube will not, you might get lucky.

RLA · Apr 10, 2014

Something you could try if ya want instead
of splitting the tractor, Loosen the rear
housing & get is split apart 1/16 to a 1/8
go buy a new thing of dental floss & string
it around the outside of the remaining studs
& bolts. Retighten everything back up. I would
ALMOST bet it would Not leak........

thdrduck · Apr 10, 2014

RLA, I like the "ALMOST" bet! Never heard of the dental floss trick before. My thought was to open it up a little and squirt some RTV gasket sealer in there and tighten it back up but before I do anything I'll dump some 80w90 in it and see how bad it leaks. As was said, maybe I'll get lucky (that would sure be nice for a change). Oh... anyone know of a trick to get the clutch lever pin out?

rrlund · Apr 10, 2014

Now there's an idea I never heard of. I was messing with something similar just yesterday and could have used that. I sprayed brake clean in it,blew it out,ran a rag around there with a screwdriver and pushed some silicone gasketmaker in it. Success was limited.

rick deere · Apr 10, 2014

sounds like the one were the axle seal leaked so he only drove it around a hillside with the axle that leaked on the high side of hill.never leaked again.

gtx1967jewison · Apr 10, 2014

Ez repair! Support the tractor, take out the bolts & roll it back.
What do you expect of something that's 80 yrs old & who's
original purpose was Abuse.....?

John Baird · Apr 10, 2014

There is a clutch pivot pin tool (pivot pin for the
hand clutch) on page 75 of the two cylinder club
magazine Jan/Feb 2014 edition available from
Sunsdahls" Restoration for $59

Mike M · Apr 10, 2014

Hey at least you didn't have to go and buy new tires on top of it all !

If you want one right the only way is to do a COMPLETE tear down and fix all the years of use, abuse and neglect. Long ago I figured the only way I could live with one was to know it was right all the way thru so I always tore them down to a empty case and started back up from there. Many times using good used parts from several other machines to get it done. That's why I have not done any in years just takes too much of a financial and time commitment.

At the very least at this point I'd split it apart and put a new gasket in there. Not bad to do just block the front out wide so it doesn't flop over ! They all leak there unless they have had that gasket replaced.

James Howell · Apr 10, 2014

You might consider using GL1 140W in the transmission.

That's what we use in all our old tractors down here in NE Texas.

Use a lot of your favorite penetrate on the clutch lever pin.

You might consider using a large C-clamp to apply pressure and gently/softly "tap" on the side.

That pivot point is cast iron and could/might break if you "beat" on it; ask me how I know.

Hope this helps and good luck with your 39B.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 10, 2014

My Dad is in his mid 80's and while still going, he too admits to leaks now & then and has likely not been used as hard as that old B!

I did much the same as you're describing with a '39 B a few years back. Almost in the aggravatingly unique category isn't it!

Worked for a week disassembling just the right brake assembly! I was just glad I never broke any of it getting it apart!

Overall it worked real nice when finished! Easy start. Easy to run. Took it for a drive one day.

Three Amish boys in a spring wagon pulled out of their drive onto the road behind me. They kept looking at me with a kind of puzzled look on their faces. After a while I hollered come on around boys! This is as fast as it goes!

BOY did that make THEIR day! I was happy too!

pbb · Apr 10, 2014

You didnt get hurt.Its got new tires all the way around you couldnt go buy them for 800 dollars. You bought the tires and got the tractor free.

JRSutton · Apr 10, 2014

Watch out - we pulled the head on this tractor
just to see why compression was kind of low on one
cylinder...

If you're the type that likes to do things right -
the minute you start removing parts it's a
downward spiral because eeevvverrrything needs
fixing, cleaning, or replacing. It doesn't end
until there's nothing left to take apart! Since this picture was taken, we've pretty much taken apart everything you see here.

RLA · Apr 10, 2014

I believe if you had the right kite string it
would work to, As for me I KNOW it worked on
1948 A John Deere that leaked in the same
place dental Floss fixed 10 years ago & it's
still fixed. It also repaird rear rockshaft
housing on a 730 John Deere diesel.. If you
have had one of those off you know you have
something in your arms or hoist. I think
the key is have it CLEAN on the outside so
NOTHING can get into the opening you create.
Dental floss will flatten out, I know this
method works & it sure does beat splitting
a big machine. & you can test it befor you
put everything back together with diesel fuel.
If it doesn't work, your almost there anyways.

41B-boy · Apr 10, 2014

Gentlemen,
One good reason NOT to rant is the little guy working beside you in the shop... never forget the really important stuff, eh?

Bob ( momentarily wearing my official hat )

rrlund · Apr 11, 2014

I wonder how just a couple of wraps with string trimmer line would work?

thdrduck · Apr 11, 2014

OK, I must be a little thick. I don't fully understand the floss thing. Do you just wrap each bolt between the castings? If so, how if you only split it 1/6 or 1/8 inch (I have fat fingers) :lol: Or do you go bolt to bolt between the castings and use the floss as a gasket? Or do you take a great big hammer and reduce the thing to scrap and sell the tires... of course that wouldn't help get the money back for the mag, manifold, carb or exhaust pipe, but it may make me feel better for the moment. Just kidding... I don't keep a big hammer around just to avoid the temptation. :shock:

Machinery-Man · Apr 11, 2014

My opinion is you should not get upset with a hobby....if so change hobbies....

Stupid B rant

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