JD 2510 transmission problem...need help!

sslong5871

New User
We have a JD 2510 and we were pulling it back home due to the battery going dead (a separate issue which is now fixed). We were pulling it in Neutral instead of tow. When we got almost home it seemed as though it popped into gear but it popped right back out and we continued. When we got home and charged the battery and tried to move the tractor, we realized there was a problem. The tractor will go into gear and will go forward but when we put it in reverse it acts like it wants to go backwards but as you let out on the clutch it just bogs the motor down and doesnt move. We changed the sychronizers that we think were for reverse as they showed some wear. It still has the same issue. We have it torn back apart but can't seem to find any other noticeable issues....
Any advice appreciated....
Thanks
 
did you take out the bottom shaft ..pinion shaft ? had a similar accident happen here years ago with a friends 4320 seems like he had problems with two gears stuck on the bottom shaft which is the pinion shaft .. or two gears locked with the sliding collars
 
(quoted from post at 19:13:02 03/04/14) did you take out the bottom shaft ..pinion shaft ? had a similar accident happen here years ago with a friends 4320 seems like he had problems with two gears stuck on the bottom shaft which is the pinion shaft .. or two gears locked with the sliding collars

We have actually only had the top shaft out but will look at the others tomorrow.
Thanks for the reply. Any other info greatly appreciated...this is the 4th time we have split the tractor...hoping to get it right this time....
 
When you tow a syncro-range with the engine not running it MUST be in the tow position. If not the bottom shaft becomes "welded" to a gear. What you have is a gear welded fast to the shaft on the bottom shaft. You need to remove the bottom shaft and replace all damaged parts. To remove the bottom shaft the axle housings must be removed, along with the differential, also the top shaft needs removed.
 
Sadly, "resuming" work on it tomorrow (if it was towed without the tranny being in tow) is FUTILE, unless you have a LOT of $$$ and time or even more $$$$$$ to pay someone else to repair what you "smoked" by towing it.

NOT trying to be the bad guy, just telling you like it is!
 
(reply to post at 23:52:59 03/04/14)
he tractor is already split apart and essentially in 3 large pieces, the top shaft is already out...in the whole scheme of things it can't be much more work to get to the bottom shaft. As far as $$, obviously I haven't checked into that yet but I'm sure it's worth fixing rather than junking the tractor.
 

Do the double gears(parts key #4,#13 & #23) all turn freely on shaft(parts key #22) when in neutral. Look for "blue color" on the galled gear.
mvphoto4383.gif
 
when towing and not in tow you take out the top shaft. most of the time the rev gear welds to the shaft. i have never see the bottom shaft do that i think if the bottom shaft were to do that it would be because the oil level was very low
 
Replaced the #13 gear and the shaft because the gear wouldn"t come off...put it all back together and still have the same problem.
The tractor will move forward but when you put it in reverse it still acts like it is stuck between gears...just kills the engine when you let out on the clutch.
Anyone has a diagram like the one above for the bottom shaft and know which gears should turn freely?
 
(reply to post at 03:44:48 03/19/14)
It will be the weekend before we can dive into it again. Just trying to he an idea what we are looking at. The #13 gear on the top shaft was definitely gaulded and we were sure replacing that would fix the problem...but it didn't...
Thanks for all the help so far...will probably need more as we tear it apart for the 5th time...
 

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