2020 Diesel Timing

1 Dollar

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I had my C model pump on my 2020 resealed this summer and upon installation I"m pretty sure I didn"t time it right. It smokes heavy white at idle and now that it is winter it is wet stacking like crazy. Cold starting is slightly better though. Summer wasn"t too bad, and it"s fine under a load regardless of temp. Did a good job on the baler this summer and auger in the fall. Backing in wagons to put away late this fall it about smoked me out.

I"ve never used any timing lights or meters on a gas or diesel engine so help me out if that"s your recommendation.

Thanks
 
The only way you're going to know if the timing advance is working correctly is to use a timing light or the proper plastic timing window. The timing window has degrees marked on it. You install it, run the engine at several speeds and check for proper advance movement.
 
Remove timing pin from left rear of engine near blowby tube and switch ends. TDC has dimple in flywheel and pin will locate as flywheel is turned slowly. NOT CRANKED!
Also a smaller but similar pin in base of pump.
Remove it and you can see a dimple in there. Dimple should be in center of hole.
Turn pump til centered. Back up flywheel then locate TDC again. Pump dimple should line up again.
 
(quoted from post at 16:15:23 12/22/13) Remove timing pin from left rear of engine near blowby tube and switch ends. TDC has dimple in flywheel and pin will locate as flywheel is turned slowly. NOT CRANKED!
Also a smaller but similar pin in base of pump.
Remove it and you can see a dimple in there. Dimple should be in center of hole.
Turn pump til centered. Back up flywheel then locate TDC again. Pump dimple should line up again.

Just like he said. Take the little timing window plate off the pump and look in there when you put the pin in the flywheel. A 5/16 bolt about 4 inches long will work (REMEMBETER TO TAKE IT OUT) when your done. They make a plastic one now for that reason.
If there is only one mark your on #4 TDC. Turn the thing another 360 to get to #1. When the pin goes in the lines should be straight across form each other. It not loosen the pump and adjust. Always recheck turning the engine in the running direction.
 
The timing is supposed to advance by 14 degrees when running. Subsequently - if the advance isn't working it will be impossible to manually adjust timing correctly by moving the pump. You can get the timing correct at engine idle speed, or a high RPM - but not both. Generally speaking - if the advance is not working as it should and timing is retarded at higher RPMs - the engine will skip when you try to rev it under no load. Might smooth out when worked.

That's why I mentioned the little round plastic timing window. It has circular degree lines. It makes a 10 minute job out of checking the full timing curve from 0 to 14 degrees just by screwing it on, running, and looking.

As others have mentioned - the pump itself has a timing pin hole, just like the engine does. All that does is verify the pump is static timed when the engine is cranking and has nothing to do with ensuring proper timing when the engine is actually running. If the pump has a non-working advance and you set it properly with the timing pins - it will be running 14 degrees retarded when running at high RPM.
 
Ok thanks for the directions. I think I did the pins when I first installed this thing but I'll check that again for sure. My main concern is just the smoking at idle. It runs fine everywhere, the smoke just burns your eyes and I know it's not burning all the fuel.

Is there a way to dynamically time it?

Where could one go about getting one of these windows?

Thanks

(quoted from post at 06:39:03 12/23/13) The timing is supposed to advance by 14 degrees when running. Subsequently - if the advance isn't working it will be impossible to manually adjust timing correctly by moving the pump. You can get the timing correct at engine idle speed, or a high RPM - but not both. Generally speaking - if the advance is not working as it should and timing is retarded at higher RPMs - the engine will skip when you try to rev it under no load. Might smooth out when worked.

That's why I mentioned the little round plastic timing window. It has circular degree lines. It makes a 10 minute job out of checking the full timing curve from 0 to 14 degrees just by screwing it on, running, and looking.

As others have mentioned - the pump itself has a timing pin hole, just like the engine does. All that does is verify the pump is static timed when the engine is cranking and has nothing to do with ensuring proper timing when the engine is actually running. If the pump has a non-working advance and you set it properly with the timing pins - it will be running 14 degrees retarded when running at high RPM.
 
(quoted from post at 13:11:04 12/22/13) I had my C model pump on my 2020 resealed this summer and upon installation I"m pretty sure I didn"t time it right. It smokes heavy white at idle and now that it is winter it is wet stacking like crazy. Cold starting is slightly better though. Summer wasn"t too bad, and it"s fine under a load regardless of temp. Did a good job on the baler this summer and auger in the fall. Backing in wagons to put away late this fall it about smoked me out.

I"ve never used any timing lights or meters on a gas or diesel engine so help me out if that"s your recommendation.

Thanks

see also
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=rrtips&th=22190

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=rrtips&th=22190
 
Deere used to sell the window under a Deere part #
that has been obsolete since the 1980s. The
Stanadyne part # for the round plastic timing
window for C pumps is # 17180. Thompson diesel
was selling them for $8 each but I suspect they
are all gone. I bought a spare last year from
them. Other dealers charge around $25 for it.

The round plastic window has degree lines in
circles. You screw it onto the pump and then
start the engine. Rev it up and look into the
window to see if the timing changes. Very easy to
do and with Deere spec pumps - you can adjust the
timing advance with the engine running.
 

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