David S. (2940 start click fix)

Randy G

Member
David,
If your solution worked for you it may well for me too. Could you explain the procedure in a little more detail so I may attempt the fix? I don"t want to start a fire by placing a wire in the wrong place. On my starter solinoid the top post is connected to the positive cable from the batteries, the bottom large connection goes from the solinoid to the starter case.(negative?) then there is a small screw connection that connects to a small wire. Thanks for your help!! You can Email me if you wish.
 

Randy
I'm not David but I explained how to hookup the second solenoid in your other thread. If you still have questions you can call me @ 8one7 five1seven ifive9zero
 
Randy, as I noted before Im NOT experienced any any newer generation Deeres but from what you say I can describe one way to wire a starter relay solenoid to activate the solenoids small S activation terminal to simulate what happens if you jump the solenoids activation circuit...

BUT NOTE SUCH CAN (depends on how wired) BY PASS ANY SAFETY SWITCHES SUCH AS A NEUTRAL SAFETY !!!!!!!!!

1) The solenoid has two big posts, one is the battery INPUT where a big cable down from the ungrounded battery post attaches, the other is the big output post to the starter.

2) The small terminal is the solenoids activation terminal, if it receives hot battery voltage the solenoid contacts close and powers the starter

3) If you want to simulate direct jumping the solenoid you can use a 12 volt (coil voltage) normally open N/O single pole single throw relay.

4) One (output) terminal of the N/O relay contactor would wire to the small S activation terminal,,,,,,,the other (input) wires to the big battery cable input post. Thats where it receives its hot battery voltage source.

5) The operating coil of the relay would wire one wire to frame ground, the other up to the dash to a switch (additional new or existing) that supplies hot battery voltage WHEN IN START POSITION.

6) If you want the neutral safety switch to remain operative, then it must be placed in series in the wire from the start switch down to the new relays coil. That way even if you push start the relay wont activate UNLESS the neutral safety switch is closed

Instead of all this Id consider rewiring (bigger wire if necessary) the existing start circuit and replacing the neutral safety switch if its contacts are burned and resisitve (voltage drop across it) and/or checking the start switch for resistive contacts

John T
 
That is the way the newer Deeres are John, the safety switch circuit activates the first solenoid, which in turn activates the starter solenoid.This takes the load off the ignition switch. When we swap a 24v to a 12v it's necessary to add this "second" solenoid to the system. And I cannot stress enough the importance of keeping the safety switch working correctly.
 
I agree, Id want the safety switch circuit in series so it MUST be made up and closed BEFORE the starter can be engaged. The extra relay makes sense, it sure takes a lot of the current load off the starter switch

John T still NOT a new gen man remember
 
(quoted from post at 12:08:54 02/15/12) I agree, Id want the safety switch circuit in series so it MUST be made up and closed BEFORE the starter can be engaged. The extra relay makes sense, it sure takes a lot of the current load off the starter switch

John T still NOT a new gen man remember

John T
The way I outlined to attach auxiliary solenoid will still require neutral start & ign (key)switch to operate as intended from the factory.
 
Thats what i did was keep all safeties hooked up through the coil circuit of the relay. That way if neutral safety opens no volatage to coil.
Instead of the small black wire from the ignition switch going to the seliniod i moved it to the coil of a relay. So basicly when you turn on the ignition switch it closes the contacts on the relay and applies 12v from the battery to the selinoid. I went and purchased from auto parts store a 30 amp NO/NC relay, hooked selinoid(small black wire from ignition switch to coil. then on other coil post ran wire to negative of battery. Then ran 12vdc from posative post to one side of normally open relay. Ran other side of normally open to selinoid where original small black wire from ignition switch was hooked up.
 
Randy G
Here's the photos I told you on the phone I'd post for you. This kit is for a 2440 but I think it will work on a 2940 and has wiring harness & solenoid.
RE42993 STARTER MOTOR KIT, STARTER CIRCUIT ADD 79.34
5984.jpg
5985.jpg
 
Looks kinda like an old Ford type fender mounted starter solenoid ID SAY THAT WILL HANDLE THE CURRENT NOOOOOOOO PROBLEM LOL

Still having to use one solenoids relay contacts to energize yet another solenoids activation coil TWO SOLENOIDS seems like the original design was POORLY ENGINEERED.

I have no doubt, however, the double solenoid arrangements most of us described will work, it just seems so jury rigged lol but hey I went with it also IF THE ORIGINAL JUST ISNT WORKING RIGHT

John T Still mostly a two cylinder kinda guy
 
(quoted from post at 08:44:12 02/16/12)

Still having to use one solenoids relay contacts to energize yet another solenoids activation coil TWO SOLENOIDS seems like the original design was POORLY ENGINEERED.



John T Still mostly a two cylinder kinda guy

Yes the solenoid in the kit is similar to the old Ford auto solenoid. IMHO not nearly as poor design as JD's 24V system. If you wish to see a JD poor design check out the wiring schematics(spider web)& circuit board on a JD Mannheim SGB(cab) tractor.
 
Kit is ordered Jim. I will contact you for installation help if no directions come with it.

Thanks for your help everyone!!

Randy G
 

John T
just found your reply in 2/2012 to Randy G regarding fixing the srarting issue with his JD 2940.

Will your solution also work on my JD 2750
Thanks for the reply
 

All of the 55 series tractors were field modified with this kit mentioned above.
There is a lawn mower kit that I used to use for the first relay in the 55 series type set up. You can get it for an STX38.
It has all the wires and a base and a relay for around $20. I used to keep at least one on my service truck. Even when I did not work for JD any more.

I used that when all the original wiring was gone or bad.

I used to do this all the time to any JD 2030 - 2950.
A 55 is totally different. the start switch signal goes through the fuse panel 3 times.

BE SURE your neutral start switch works.

Do not use this solenoid on a row crop 4030 -4840. The solenoids for those tractors have 4 lugs and must be grounded through the neutral start switch.
A three pole switch on a 4230 will get you run over. Just don't do it please. I took so many of those things off it would make your head spin. I used those perfectly good 3 poles on the smaller tractors.
 
The solenoid is just like jumping the starter with a screw driver.

DON'T EVER DO THAT.

The difference of the solenoid is that it still goes through the neutral start switch which is under the floor on the front of the rockshaft housing and is a bear to get to an a cab tractor.

They have to be shimed to the right depth!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have used this same set up on late model MFs that would not start.
 
(quoted from post at 14:41:06 12/22/13)
All of the 55 series tractors were field modified with this kit mentioned above. I used to do this all the time to any JD 2030 - 2950. A 55 is totally different. the start switch signal goes through the fuse panel 3 times. BE SURE your neutral start switch works.

Dan
I left the JD dealership right before the introduction 55 series. Could you please briefly explain how the start switch signal travels through the fuse panel 3 times and is that true for both Waterloo & Mannheim built tractors? I think you must be referring to Mannheim only as the wiring diagram for Mannheim tractor with a cab reminded me of a "spider web". The reason I ask is I've owned a 4255 since '93.
Thanks,Jim
 
(quoted from post at 05:54:07 12/23/13)
(quoted from post at 14:41:06 12/22/13)
All of the 55 series tractors were field modified with this kit mentioned above. I used to do this all the time to any JD 2030 - 2950. A 55 is totally different. the start switch signal goes through the fuse panel 3 times. BE SURE your neutral start switch works.

Dan
I left the JD dealership right before the introduction 55 series. Could you please briefly explain how the start switch signal travels through the fuse panel 3 times and is that true for both Waterloo & Mannheim built tractors? I think you must be referring to Mannheim only as the wiring diagram for Mannheim tractor with a cab reminded me of a "spider web". The reason I ask is I've owned a 4255 since '93.
Thanks,Jim
First of all we are not talking about apples and apples.

A 4255 is a Waterloo tractor............. This is not what we were talking about.
We were talking about the 2000 size not the 4000 size row crop tractors.

All the small 2000 tractors were modified from with the start soleniod in the field and if you look there is a seperate electrical section in addition to the original TM.
They drive you crazy because there are wires cut off and you think somebody has been in there jack legging some fix but it is the way they are supposed to be.

I'm not sure about the strart soleniod on the 4255. If it is a 4 pin it needs to be replaced with a 4 pin. These machine could use the tach for some logic. I know that the flashers for the turn signal and the hazard lights gets its (Flash) through the tach.
 

Dan
Apples or oranges here is what you stated and is the reason in my asking if Waterloo tractors were included in your statement and I'll quote you. You didn't state all 55 series "UTILITY tractors"!
[/quote]

You also failed to explain how the start circuit on a utility tractor travels 3 different times through the fuse board!!!
Merry Christmas,Jim
 

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