Best way to remove 4020 head plug for block heater

jd_adict

Member
Hi just wanting to pick your brains on how to
remove a plug in the head of a 4020 to install a
block heater. It is a hexagon plug that I have a
real good socket to fit in side. I have a real
good half inch hammer driver that I can use as
well. Should I heat the area around the plug as
well as the plug or just the area around it. I
have put the half inch johnston bar on and gave it
a good pull without any movement. Do I need the
heat if I have a hammer drive wrench that may jar
it loose? I do not want to break anything here so
thats why all the questions. thanks for any info
to help me out.
 
I believe the plugs are put in with Loctite, at least that is what I was told. When I worked in a JD shop I think we heated the area around the plug.
 
I used to heat the center of the plug red hot then cool it down with a penetrating fluid to shrink it. Its a bit of work but your heater well work really good.
 
Just did a couple of those.

Drain coolant.

Heat PLUG darned hot.

Allow to cool to ambient.

Heat again. Allow to cool to ambient, and, likely you won"t even need an Allen wrench to get the plug out... will probably be darned near LOOSE!
 
I"ve lubed them up pretty well with PBBlaster, waited a while, and used an impact wrench held firmly in place, set on real-real-light, just tap-tap-tap, works for me.
 
Hit the plug with a hammer a few time and then try and tighten it up a little then it breaks the sealant loose and it will come right out. There should be a need to heat it.
 
thanks alot for all the advise. the motor was just overhauled and runs like new. Its the front plug right by the alternator. A very sensative spot for stuffing in the torch. Today I am going to try a few techniques before the heat. Will let you all know how I make out.
 
NO! Use the center plug. Don't heat the head. Heat the plug very hot as others said and let it cool on it's own. It will come out pretty easy.
 
D- got it right,,your heading for the wrong plug, Darn it,,and just to mention the fact that when you "are' heating some thing in a place where the heat can and will hurt things, get those "Things" off and out of the way "first",, it will help to keep your Dummy light from coming on.... The Old Timers would say to heat and cool a part like this 3 times,, and there seems to be some thing to it, the expansion the heat causes helps to loosen the piece ...
 
Are you saying whacking it with a hammer is easier on the head than heating the plug?
 
Well guys I got the plug out. tried all the techniques before using heat and no luck. it was in there tight, impact wrench and hammer driver didnt budge it. so out come the torch. like I was told I removed the alternator and put tin in place for the injector lines to prevent heat damage. I heated the plug only till it was almost red around the hex area. put a big johnston bar and pipe on it and never even got to pull hard,.... plug was loose. I swear I did smell the lock tight melt loose. thanks for all the advise, bottom line is use a bit of heat. thanks
 
Just wanted to add that I used the front plug because of neatness of hose. YES is should use the center plug to heat the head evenly with block heater. I have a few 4020s with it there and a couple with it in the front. thing is I may put a loader on it and dont want to be trying to change fuel filters with loader and heater hose in the way.
thanks again
 
If the block is really cold and you heat the plug you could have breakage on the block speaking from experience.
 
here is a pix of the way I am going to plumb my heater. This is not my tractor, seen it at a show and took the pix. My tractor has the new style injector lines and pump so the middle hole is not axcessible. but the plug right behind the alternator is, thats the one Im using. and will be very neat looking. I use the hole in the other side of the block center for the bottom of the heater. Hope this helps.
a139568.jpg
 

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