(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Changing a 350 mower sickle cutter bar. Any tips or tricks?

R

Randy G

Member
Ready to replace the cutter bar on my 350 sickle mower. Any adjustments or tips I should know about? The manual is rather vague. Also the bar JD sent me has under serrated cut sections. Is this the way to go or is smooth or top serrated bars any better? Any help is welcome.
 
Depends on the crop you are trying to harvest. Most GUARDS have a SERRATED LEDGER plate factory attached. When cutting general grasses, most say and use a SMOOTH KNIFE against a serrated guard. If both the guard and knife are serrated, they tend to grab and tear the crop causing plugging ,hence the slip clutch get abuse.We have generally used over serrated and plain or serrated ledgers for ALFALFA.
 
There are no adjustments necessary after replacing the cutter bar.

Remove the subsole.

a128816.jpg" width="650"


Remove the front two hex cap screws that secure the inner shoe.

a128817.jpg" width="650"


Remove the inner shoe.

a128818.jpg" width="650"


a128819.jpg" width="650"


Remove the back two hex cap screws and stud.

a128820.jpg" width="650"


Remove the old cutter bar.

Replace the new cutter bar.



John Deere Parts Catalog PC-1382 recommends 5/8" x 2 1/4" hex cap screw #19H1824 as displayed on page 32.

Recommend that Grade 8, 5/8" x 2 1/4" hex cap screws be used [b:654c4848f0]<font color="#ff0000">with lock nuts</font>[/b:654c4848f0] on the back.

Replace the back two hex cap screws.

Replace the inner shoe and stud.

Recommend that Grade 8, 5/8" x 2" hex cap screws be used [b:654c4848f0]<font color="#ff0000">with lock nuts</font>[/b:654c4848f0] on the front.

a128821.jpg" width="650"


a128825.jpg" width="650"


Make sure that the knife drive yoke does not hit the top of the front hex cap screws.

a128822.jpg" width="650"


a128823.jpg" width="650"


Replace the subsole.

a128826.jpg" width="650"


Hope this helps.
 
In my opinion you could do like Mr. Howell says but I"ve had 3 of them...I just removed the pin from the wobble arm...it is held by one nut...then slide the bar out....I always held the bar about waist high for easy access...use a screw drive or to push the blade sections back in place when reinstalling....pretty simple...just don"t push on it with hand or fingers...
 
Got it replaced. Replaced all the wear plates too. Thanks for all the great advice!! Problem now is the mower will not raise enough to keep the flywheel out of the dirt.(behind the wobble box that the belt drives the cutter)I adjusted the float spring according to the manual. Bar moves freely. Its on a 530 WF. What am I missing?
 
Lower the mower to the ground.

Raise the lift arm links on both sides to raise the back of the mower frame approximately 12" off the ground.

a128882.jpg" width="650"


This should give enough room to slide your fingers under the subsole.

a128883.jpg" width="650"


The subsole should "float" over the ground when adjusted properly.

When you raise the mower frame, it should be about 18" off the ground.

a128884.jpg" width="650"


The bottom of the cutter bar should be about 10" from the ground.

a128890.jpg" width="650"


The end of the cutter bar should be about 41" from the ground.

a128892.jpg" width="650"


These settings should keep the flywheel out of the dirt.

a128894.jpg" width="650"


Hope this helps.
 
I agree with Carlyle. It all depends on what guards you have on the mower. If you have serrated guards... you will want a smooth sickle section. If you have smooth guards, you will want a serrated section. The over serrated sections seem to last longer for me but I have had good luck touching up an underserrated. As for which combination is best, I have 2 mowers, one set up each way, and I cant tell any difference. James, Nice job on the step by step walk through!
 
Thanks for the compliment on the photos.

We have four 350 mowers; three of which are used to cut hay.

Figured it would make it easier for me to work on them if there were photos for each step of a particular job.

Probably need to make a "how to" video; took me longer to post the reply than to set up the mower height.
 
I found the no clog double sections worked the best, however there is no such thing as no clog. I would suggest you get a manual, there are gillions of adjustments on these machines, but generally the average setting will do what you desire. There is a wide position and narrow which is important. I always used the narrow for the two cylinders. The offset PTO on the two cylinder posed a problem and I had to bend the lift bar to the side and move the tongue over.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
Super C sickle mower
Replies
3
Views
244
Levi81
L
O
Sickle sections
Replies
13
Views
717
redforlife
R
M
New-to-me JD-A and JD-B Repair Tips
Replies
13
Views
751
Fixingfarmer
Fixingfarmer
R
Ford 501 Sickle Bar Mower
Replies
4
Views
463
paul
P
D
Mortl Mower Parts
Replies
1
Views
416
Muir hill 101
M
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top