4020 Synro Shift Clutch will not release

jsborn

Member
I have a 4020 diesel Synro Shift Serial #68387. Seems the clutch will not release. The tractor was working fine about 4 weeks ago and has been parked under a shelter. When I went to start it today it cranked up but I could not get it to go in gear. I had the clutch pedal pushed in but was grinding the gears like the clutch was not releasing.
Being me, I decided to put it in reverse and crank it to get it out of the shed and see if I could get the clutch to release. That worked fine until I needed to stop. With the clutch pedal all in the tractor keep pulling so I tried hitting the breaks and it just pulled harder. I killed the engine and put it in 1st gear and cranked it back up and drove it a bit with the clutch pedal pushed in and hitting the breaks no luck breaking it free.

Is there something I can look at or do short of splitting the tractor to free it? I know it probably needs a new clutch but was hoping I could wait a bit before I took on that project.

Any help would be great
 
If it worked and then didn't after setting;
1 Clutch disk stuck.
If just coincidental:
1 Pilot bearing froze.
2 Finger adjusting bolt broken.
3 Clutch facing coming off and stacking.
4 Throw out bearing cut off fingers. You should have heard that and be able to feel no resistance when pushing the pedal.
You can remove the cover underneath to view the fingers and adjusting bolt.
 
Hey js,
The best way to break a clutch free if it is indeed "frozen" from sitting is to go somewhere away from anything or anyone you could hit and getting it moving in as high a gear as you can and with your foot holding down the clutch hit first right and then left brakes really quick. Just a quick hard hit works the best and as high a gear as you can. Be sure to have the clutch pedal down. This can be dangerous so be very careful. I've been quite successful getting clutches unstuck doing this over the years. If this doesn't work your doing a clutch job. Good Luck! John
 
Do any of you have any good sources for rebuilt clutch assembles?

I think that is going to be my best fix.

Any reputable parts sources would be appreciated.
 
(quoted from post at 17:19:42 08/25/13)
Hi-capacity or A&I or YT tractors(top LH corner of this page)

Thanks Jim

Now for more questions:

When I take all the hydraulic lines loose how much fluid will I loose and when I reconnect them what will be needed to purge the air ?

Is there any other tips or things I need to look for when making the split and re-assembly?
 

It's been since '87 since I've witnessed a tractor being split but IIRC not much oil will be lost. Upon reassembly just operate the hyd's to purge the air out. Do not force the 2 halves back together.Be sure to turn flywheel(to engage clutch splines) by means of a bar through timing window hole at flywheel. Cut the heads off 2 long bolts the correct size to use as guide to line up engine & clutch housing.
 
a 4020 is one of the easiest tractors to split,if
it's a narrow front end you should get a set of
splitting stands some where, if it's a wide front
wedge a couple 2X4's between the front frame and
the axle to keep the front end from rocking, put a
floor jack under the rear as close to the split
area that you can,remove the hood and cowl,steer
lines, pressure and return lines I un-hook all the
wires forward to the Gen &fuel sender and lay them
back over the cowl,6 oil pan bolts (3/4" wrench),6
bell housing bolts 1 1/8" wrench) water sender
(don't forget this one) look it over as you go
apart, you will loose a gallon of oil here and
there , just enough to mess up the floor....
 
If it worked and then didn't after setting;
1 Clutch disk stuck.
If just coincidental:
1 Pilot bearing froze.
2 Finger adjusting bolt broken.
3 Clutch facing coming off and stacking.
4 Throw out bearing cut off fingers. You should have heard that and be able to feel no resistance when pushing the pedal.
You can remove the cover underneath to view the fingers and adjusting bolt.


Well I got the tractor in the shed and pulled to inspection cover off.
The clutch is stuck solid.
Finger bolts all ok
Throw out bearing and fingers still look good and are working.
That only leaves 1 and 3 above both of which require splitting the tractor.

I am going to fab some splitting stands and will start the work as soon as I can. What would be a good guess as to how much weight the stands need to be able to support when tractor is split?

Thanks for all the help so far and please be on the lookout for more questions as I proceed.
 

Before I split the tractor I'd block clutch pedal dow,start engine and get it up to operating temp and see if clutch disk would free up. If that didn't work then I would get it out in the open,safely get it started in a forward gear and stomp the brake pedals independently to see if clutch would break free
 
Tx Jim

I tried that twice with no affect. The driving and stomping the break with the clutch pushed in was fun but was no help. I had a friend tell me to drive it at slow speed into a tree with the clutch pushed in but that was a little too much fun for me.
 
My next question is approximately how much weight will be on the jack splitting stands when I split the tractor?

I am asking because I am planning on making a set of splitting stands and it would be helpful to know how much they would need to hold up and what kind of load would be on the casters :) .
 
Not trying to be a pain or start anything but I just read in the Service Manual where it talks about splitting the 4020 and there is a note to remove all front weights and even a full fuel tank can cause the front to tip over. If this is correct the weight on the stand should not be much??? :?: :?:
 

I've witnessed several 4020 split with frt weights still attached with no problems. I'd have to witness a full fuel causing splitting stand to come off the floor to believe fuel can cause any problem.
 

I've witnessed several 4020 split with frt weights still attached with no problems. I'd have to witness a full fuel causing splitting stand to come off the floor to believe fuel can cause any problem.
 

Must be the "Lawyers Paragraph" I didn't/don't see how it could be either but that's why I ask. :oops: :?:
 
My next question is approximately how much weight will be on the jack splitting stands when I split the tractor?

I am asking because I am planning on making a set of splitting stands and it would be helpful to know how much they would need to hold up and what kind of load would be on the casters :) .


Well I now have the answer to my question.
:D
After splitting the tractor I weighed the jack stands and found that the front half has 1400# resting on the stand and the rear half has only 700#.


Not as heavy as I would have thought but still not going to tip over backwards. :lol:
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If you have some reliable help with another tractor, drag it out where you can pull it, put it into 6th or 7th gear and pull it with the clutch pedal held down, engine off. I use an old tire between two chains as a shock absorber and repeatedly jerk it a bit. My 3010 had the same problem and that is what worked for me. When the engine fan stops turning the clutch is free. Since my tractor often sits for extended periods, I block the clutch pedal where it is just released and have had no further problems.
 

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