Shutting down Model H and Carb/fuel question

JD Gimpl

Member
Hello Everyone,

I know I am going to get various answers here but wondering what is the best way to shut my 41 H down now that I have rebuilt the carb and have it running once again.

I have been running it out of fuel, is this the best way to shut down a hand start JD?

Also now that I have the carb rebuilt and working great, do I leave it dry without fuel in the bowl or would you keep fuel in it even if it means turn the fuel back on after she is shut down.

Thanks a bunch

Gimpl
 
On all of our gassers we shut fuel off and let run dry, unless we"re going to start it up real soon, however my experience with our hand start h is to always run it dry... I only do this because I know exactly what she likes to start and duplicate it every time..
 
All H's were fuel burners and designed to kill by running out of fuel so they could be started on gas again the next time.
Why change something that has worked for 72 years?
 
I always run mine out of gas unless I'm going to restart before it cools off. Plus shutting off the gas will prevent any possibility of gas getting into the oil if the float valve doesn't seat properly. Gas in the oil will eventually wear the bearings and can wash the oil from the piston rings until there is no compression. Happened on my father's H once. I run 100DLL aviation fuel in mine and have for about 15 years now. Johnny really likes this stuff. My H is still a working tractor. Use mine for mowing, raking, baling, plowing and manure hauling. Plus run an old baling press once a year at show time with it off the belt.
 
I advise you to turn it off by shutting off the gas and letting her starve out and die and then open the throttle wide open and leave it set there afterwards. On my hand starters Ive done it that way for yearssssssss and its proven to be the best for easy hand starts. Id have to look it up, but I believe thats how mother Deere advised it be done back in the day.

As you say, others may have different methods and opinions, all I can say THATS WORKED BEST FOR ME, so its your tractor and your choice so go for it however you wish.

PS for the old al fuelers that used lower octane Tractor or Drip Fuel etc., it was good for the gasoline to flush the carb (shutdown) and then, of course, let it re fill with gas for start up prior to warm up then switching to tractor fuel..........

John T
 
Its my opinion that with the throttle plate sittin there wide open that allows more air to freely circulate in the cylinder combustion area (any left over vapors to evaporate versus raw gas left that washes oil off the walls n rings) so all is purged out and youre ready to take in a fresh well vaporized fuel air mixture on the restart. Sound best to me and "seemed" to help but I have no scientifc evidence or data whatsoever......

John T
 
Thank you John T.

I truly appreciate your knowledge and the fact that you would pass it on.

Have a great day

Gimpl
 
Youre welcome, I'm fairly handy on electrical stuff but that carb and venting above is sorta out of my area but still my honest "opinion" (its worked for me at least)

best wishes

John T
 
(quoted from post at 12:57:55 08/13/13) ...cylinder combustion area ...

But wouldn't that only be possible if the intake valve was open on a cylinder? I'd suspect that only one of them might be open at a time. Even then, only one of them might even be open at all. Or did I miss the point entirely?
 
I sure agree and admit there would be MORE/BETTER circulation if a valve(s) were open, but regardless it seems that the carb butterfly being left open would contribute to better evaporation????

Hey Im NOT a chemist or fuel expert, just going on what SEEMS a better way to leave the carb (throttle plate open) when they are sitting IM OPEN TO HELP HERE !!!!

John T
 
I do much the same a John T. I just move the speed control lever enough to hold the throttle most of the way open. I don't push the speed control forward enough to place any tension on the governor spring and it's not so far back asto push against the bumper spring either. I suspect John does the same. I then also roll the engine until #1 is past the compression stroke (mag impulse has tripped) and is in the power stroke with #2 compressing. This way all valves are closed. I then open the fuel bowl drain & keep a coffee can under the carb. No water collects in my fuel bowls to freeze & crush my floats. No leaking valves let the gas migrate to the crank case. Valve don't stick open from rust on the shiny spots exposed in the cylinders. The mag's impulse is not wound up more than necessary and the breaker points are open so moisture is less apt to cause problems there.

Later.
 

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