question on starting 60

Hi Guys,
Had my 60 running just fine a couple of weeks ago. Since then I think I flooded it once, let it sit a few days. When I retried today I almost stuck new plugs in but thought I'd give it one more shot with the old ones that have been in about a year (about 10hrs. of low rpm running. I'm sure I've flooded it even more. This time it wouldn't start either. My next step unless y'all suggest otherwise is to install new plugs & give it another try. Do you think I should attempt at first with no choke at all? Should I treat it as normal & use choke til it fires ????? Not sure what would be best. Help much appreciated. I have a bunch of bushhogging to do.
Thanks,
Arnie
 
It's very hard to flood a 60 so bad it won't start if it has decent spark. There's a pretty good chance you have weak spark and it's probably in the distributor. Your plugs are probably good with only ten hours on them. Turn the engine over so the points are open, turn on the ignition and flick a screwdriver around between the open points. Is there a little spark between the screw driver and the points? Does the big wire coming out of the coil throw a spark when you hold it 1/4"-1/2" away from metal while playing with the points with the screwdriver? If you can make a spark by playing around with the points with a screwdriver but there's weak spark when you crank it over you need to clean or replace the points. The screwdriver is merely doing what the points are supposed to do. If you can't get spark out of the points switch out the condenser. They go bad fast today. Jim Oh yes, let us know what you find.
 
First off, are you sure you flooded it, it may not be getting any gas. Try draining the carb bowl and see how much runs out. Might want to check for spark to.
 
Had a very much like your problem a while ago. Did everything carb-wise. Turned out to be the rotor button to carbon contact in the dist. cap. New cap, new rotor, BADDA BING !! HTH
 
If my 60 sits a while, I have to manually open the automatic fuel shut-off (above the sediment bowl). Hold it open half a min or so. I guess it is an oil pressure shut-off and tractor doesn't get fuel. Maybe gas evaporates out of carb??
 
when I still had my 60 it would be hard to start sometimes ( no matter how much you used the choke )then I would do the exact same thing wolfman posted and it would fire right up
 
New or cleaned up plugs is always a good choice. My '53 (with regular fuel bowl) starts with 1/2 throttle, full choke on the 2nd 'rhumpa', open choke and let warm up. Other than the cap/rotor deal below, been the same since 1971, including the rebuild of the engine ! HTH
 
My 60 was hard to start as well. Too much gas I would flood it. If it was damp outside it was hard too. Switched to electronic ignition with one of the kits on here and it fixed everything. Starts excellent now. One of the best reliability improvements I ever did for t my 60
 
I know I'm lapsing on getting back to the tractor. I'm keeping all of your suggestions around for when I do finally find time. I'll be sure to let everyone know how I make out. Sure does sound tempting to switch to the electronic ignition in the future though. We're so busy preparing for a 2 week vacation starting the 10th of August that I may not find time till I get back from it. Priorities priorities !!!!

Thanks all.

Arnie
 
I don't like the electronic ignition kits. Check the points and prove the gap, both of mine will not start unless the throttle is clear back and No choke, then as it starts bumping the throttle up a bit gently and it will run, too much and it will try to die, till the throttle is pulled clear back again,,,they all have their own little habits.... What i don't like about the electronic kits is they seem to have a short life,and if they quit you need to wait till a new one comes in,,,with regular points you can go to the parts store and pick up a set and go on...
 
iv had my 60 since 2008 never had much issues starting it, its started every winter and has fed 100 round bales a year, what I have did with it was re wired it has a new jd switch new points and conds a 12v resistor coil, I run my charged white wire off the middle post on the voltage regulator it charges at ten amps till full charged, I have only put new plugs in it once, only issue im running into now is carb trouble, cause they had a rigged up chock lever on the carb , but I got a rebuilt carb to try on it don't have the right chock rod to at the time
 
middle post on regulator makes it charge good its called winter charging post, with the lights on im still pushing 3 amps in to it lights off 10 amps
till full charged
 
I set a big round bale every 3 days in winter to cut waste I live in ohio never had my tractor not started since 2008
 
small rounds bales make it a day, if I fill up the field with them they weste half of them they get wet inside
 
did u ever fix the choke butter fly springs the choke arm on the carb has a spring on the carb thats wound up to suck open when it is right operation vacuum even if its over choked
 

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