Gas 3020 Improvements -- winter starting

Hello All,

I've got a gas 3020, front console. It starts and runs fine in the summer (sounds like it cranks slow to me, some others agree, others say that it cranks as a gas 3020 should).

A couple of locals have suggested "improvements" and I'm wondering if any are worthwhile. It's already negative ground, but still has the generator, which works OK but barely (if that) keeps up with the lights. It is a yard tractor, probably used 2 hours at a time max in the winter. Sometimes I mow with it in the summer, but also use it for short terms just to fill a pickup with the loader.

It already has the electronic ignition and a Zenith carb (upgrades I've made). It has a tank heater, and I plan to plug it in before starting in the winter. I do understand how the manifold heat blocks work.


Some have suggested that I put in the next size up starter. I believe the one for the propane 3020. I'm told it will fit, and will not extend the solenoid (which is already almost touching the carb) but that the starter body will be under the carb so that the starter will need to come off to remove the carb. This sounds like a problem I don't want, and I hate to replace a working starter, but I also want a reliable tractor.

Others locally, and posts I've read from Gerald J on here, recommend switching to an alternator. As I said, the generator does work, but the tractor is used for lots of short "trips". Is this something I should consider?

Thanks,

Bob

A destroking screw on the front pump is one of the better values for about $25. Easy to install and use, it makes a huge difference in starting.

Just a WAG, BUT, when was the last time you cleaned ALL the terminals in the starting circuit ? Clean, bright and tight is the mantra for electrical stuff. HTH

As others have said good clean and tight electricals make a big difference in starting/charging. What about good hot plugs for winter use ? I know it makes a difference for a garden tractor that can and will start in -20* inside a shed. So, why wouldn't it work for a larger tractor ??? Plugged in makes a huge difference too. Also, what about a larger cranking amp battery ? Maybe two batteries for more cranking umph ??

Add the second battery like the diesels have and that will help alot. chris

I have gone through this with my 3020 three starters in less than 100hrs finally got it figured out I know all the things mentioned on here are real important to do clean cables etc. etc. I also have a de-stroker valve on mine plus it had the extra solenoid ahead of the starter what it came down to was it was only getting 4 volts to the starter from the switch, ran a new wire from starter button to starter ended the slow spin took the extra solenoid off works great now.

I have two 4020G w/loaders for shop use. Both have altenators. One has a special small diameter pulley to run it faster. Many times tractors are started more than run. When this is the case I still have to occasionally charge batteries. My tractors start easily whether hot, cold or wet. The main tractor has to have the choke out and immediatly pushed back in.
My advise... don't install an altenator. Either use two batteries as in a diesel or better yet rig a box to hold a group 31 battery as I did.

I put on new battery cables and went bigger to 1/0 made a world of difference

A gasser does not require high rpm cranking like a diesel . A gasser requires lots of voltage on the ignition circuit
Lots of CCA battery. Heavy cables as previously stated. Bolt the chassis return cable to a starter mount stud.

Thanks All,

I do have the destroker installed (doesn"t seem to make much difference in my case). I will re-clean connections (did it a couple of years ago) and look into bigger cables. I think I"ve got OK voltage at the starter, even when cranking (I forget the number, but I measured it once and though it was reasonable). I"ll check on all that,

Thanks again,