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John Deere A flywheel

M

mountaindog

Member
I'm putting my 46 A back together after painting. How far should the flywheel go onto the shaft? I got it on as far as it wants Togo and its still 1/2" from being flush with the end of the shaft.
 
Ok, got me. No clue what your talking about. I only removed the flywheel from the shaft. I did not open the case behind the flywheel. Sounds like I need some guidance.
 
I agree with Teddy...make sure key key sticking out in flywheel (If you have a key) lines up in notch in oil slinger. I"ve seen a lot of these keys ground off. You need .005 - .010 thrust clearance. I always try to have a helper pushing on pulley to keep the crank from sliding away from you as you move the flywheel with a rubber hammer.
 
There is a pin sticking out of the back of the flywheel, it needs to be aligneg with a notch in the flywheel seal(oil slinger) holder.
 
Ok, now I understand. I'll have to wait till I get help later today to pull it back off and look. I put it back where it was but that don't say the previous owner did it right. The one spline on the crank has a small set screw in it which lines up with the key way slot in the flywheel. At least that's the way it was when I took it apart.
 
Yes, the flat on the crank lines up with the setscrew in flywheel and if the flywheel is the only thing you removed for painting then the notch in the oil slinger should still be in time on the crank. I usually look for V marks on the end of crank & flywheel spline before removal. If these are not present before removal I usually punch mark or use a paint marker so I get them on the same way they came off because not all cranks have this flat. Very important to get this right but it sounds like you are on the right path. You just need someone on the pulley side to get your .005/.010 clearance. I hope this helps.
 
Ok, got the oil slinger lined up and the flywheel is now back where it belongs. Aparently it was not right from the get go.
Now please explain where I need the .005-.010 clearance.
Forgive me. Can be a bit dense sometimes. Just want to be sure I'm doing it right.
 
Do you have an indicator with a magnetic base? This is the most accurate way to check. If not, if you can pull back & forth on the flywheel after its tightened and only see slight movement back & forth is good enough then. Another way to check is watch your flywheel or pulley as you engage the clutch. If your clearance is excessive you will be able to see it move side to side as you engage & disengage.
 
(quoted from post at 01:03:45 07/21/13) .....Another way to check is watch your flywheel or pulley as you engage the clutch. If your clearance is excessive you will be able to see it move side to side as you engage & disengage.
Click to expand...

I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure the pulley moves outward when you engage the clutch regardless of how much side play the crank has.
 
A shadetree mechanic way to check the endplay is with the flywheel tight, engage the clutch. Then kind of flop the clutch lever forward and back, coming back against resistance but not disengaging the clutch and then going ahead till you hit resistance. Do it fairly fast. This will make the crankshaft shift side to side. If you hear a deep clunk as you're doing this the endplay is too loose. You can sometimes watch the flywheel and see it move in and out. You can also do it this way if you are using a dial indicator only do it more slowly. There are probably a few two bangers out there with that perfect .005 endplay but not many. Jim
 
Seems like I mounted a dial indicator just behind the flywheel area on the tractor frame. It may have had a magnetic base. I don't remember as it was a machinists buddy of mine who was helping at the time. Regardless, it barely moves inward and outward.
 
I don't have a dial indicator with a magnetic base so we had to do it the shade tree mechanic way. Got it figured out. Thanks Guys.
 
You could be right, but that still doesn't matter since we are not interested in what the pulley does in response to the clutch engagement for this procedure. After it's snapped over and engaged, the clutch handle becomes a super handy method of sliding the crankshaft and flywheel to the left AND right depending only on which way you move the handle. We never disengage the clutch during this process either, we are just using the handle to move the crank in it's main bearings, without bringing out the pry bars, blocks and sledge hammers. Instead of all that hassle, you just sit in the seat, move the clutch handle judiciously and read your dial gauge - how much easier can it be made to be? Explaining it is not so easy, however.

So easier done than said in this particular case.
 
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