3020 lights

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
We just completed clutch repalcement on our early 3020 Deisel and now have no lights. This is still on 24volts. The oil pressure light works fine. Both of the ground fuses are good. Tractor starts O.K. Is there a relay or fuse we are missing? Any thought would be appreciated.
 
(quoted from post at 20:35:13 06/22/13) This is still on 24volts. Both of the ground fuses are good. Is there a relay or fuse we are missing?

I'm confused as to why you have "2" ground fuses? I agree with Tim to check the wires on the starter(blue & brown) and the circuit breakers(parts key #31)
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TX Jim, You are correct one of the fuse links goes to ground (tran case) and the other to the wiring harness. I check the circuit breakers (continuity test) and they look O.K. We have double checked the starter and VR/gen wiring against the diagrams made before disassembly and they are correct. Could be this problem existed before the split. It's been a while since we used the lights. Any other ideas?
 
The brown & blue wires power the lights and are labeled bat A & bat B on ign & light switches. Did you check the 2 circuit breakers under the dash? Some state that lights will burn without a ground connection. I prefer the lights grounded through the fenders to the axle housing. Do you have good grounds(neutral connections)? I still remember the color of the sealed beams when they get 24 volts to them.
 
TX Jim, I checked the circuit breakers with a cotinuity tester and it shows they are closed. I assume you are refering to the ones mounted on the removable plate that holds the key and light switch?
 
I did notice a couple of things looking at the starter pic. I think there is only one blue wire and two browns? I need to print the drawing out and double check. also not a jumper from 28 to the the solenoid post? Again I will double check. Thanks for your help.
 
TX Jim, I confirmed the starter wiring and everything is per the drawing except we have two brown wires on the solinoid. I check voltage at the light switch as follows: Brown has 12V with Key on, Blue has 12V+? key on 12V-? with key off. Also checked voltage at lights: Inside (yellow wire) alwayse has 12V regardless of key position, Outside (green wire) responds to light switch. Really confusing.
 
(quoted from post at 22:37:55 06/23/13)
Brown has 12V with Key on, Blue has 12V+? key on 12V-? with key off. Also checked voltage at lights: Inside (yellow wire) alwayse has 12V regardless of key position, Outside (green wire) responds to light switch. Really confusing.

Welcome to JD's 24 volt wiring!!!! I can't remember but are the 2 brown wires crimped in the same eyelet? It sounds as if the light switch isn't wired correctly. Have you double checked the wiring on light switch?
 
Both browns are landed on the same solenoid post. The light switch wires have not been removed or unpluged for a verylong time and the lights have worked in tha last few months. I can confirm them later today. Thanks!
 
Do you have NO lights or SOME lights?

Turn the switch to all the positions. Half the lights are on one circuit and half on the other. Another thing of concern is the bulkhead connector.
 
(quoted from post at 23:05:19 06/24/13) Do you have NO lights or SOME lights?

Turn the switch to all the positions. Half the lights are on one circuit and half on the other. Another thing of concern is the bulkhead connector.

Not exactly half. How can you divide 5 headlamps in half?
 

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