Anyone ever put a 7700 combine engine in a 4020? I have access to a 7700 engine, and have been told it can be done. Is it a good idea? any thoughts? Thanks
 
Depends on the 7700. Turbo 7700 is 4430 engine. 4020 would need a lot of modification.
I think earliest 7700 was virtually a later console 4020 engine w/exception of spring in injection pump. Easy to switch.
Mid 7700 non-turbo is 4230 setup. Some modification required.
 
(quoted from post at 17:12:51 06/18/13) Anyone ever put a 7700 combine engine in a 4020? I have access to a 7700 engine, and have been told it can be done. Is it a good idea? any thoughts? Thanks

Tim S has installed several combine engines in 4020. IIRC the water pump require modification
 
I just did one last year (it"s for sale). I got lucky and found an early 7700, it was a simple bolt-in. Later ones take a little more work. Tim S will fix you right up- he"s a wealth of information.
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Yes the non-turboed engines work out the best, the front engine pulley needs to be altered a bit,use the combine water pump the 4020 manifolds and a Flex Fan from Auto zone,,a few details also in the mix,,yes I have done a lot of them, and will be glad to give you some help with it...
 
Have you seen any problems with the transmission or rear end? I am guessing this is a jump in horse power, and I don't want to cause other issues with the tractor
 
A FLEX FAN ? AND FROM ALL PLACES AUTO ZONE ?
Are those really holding up ????

I knew a guy who put a flex fan on a Chevelle and it soon went thru the freshly painted hood ! He was mad to say the least.

Local race car engine builder swore by the old stock GM 4 bladed all steel fan.Said they cooled the best of what he tried. When I work at GM dealer parts he would buy new ones all the time from me.
 
No trans problems if you can find the early engine or even the 4230 engine except for those modifications mentioned above.
If it's a '67 gas why not get a diesel engine from an early 4020? They might be easier to find than an early 7700 that has the 4020 engine. It will already have the manifold on it. Also keep in mind that those old flatsides have been overheated.
No matter what you get there are some linkage issues going form gas to diesel.
 
The non-turbo 404 will be similar to a 4020 diesel.

We have a 4020 that's had a 466 non-turbo in it since 1989. the tractor has nearly 30,000 hrs on it, 10,000 with the bigger engine. The syncro trans and rear end have never been touched- we know, dad bought her new in '69. I doubt that a different 404 engine will break yours unless its already in bad shape.

We don't work the he!? out of it, but we don't baby it either. It planted 440 acres of corn with a 7200 planter this spring...
 
Do you think I am better off trading the whole tractor? We have had it for probably 30 years, and I think we are the second owner. It hasn't been worked that hard since we have had it. It just sits too much now, and I know the diesel would handle that better than the gas does. I see you can buy completely rebuilt 4020 engines from some places too. Maybe that would be a good option
 
As previously stated. For an "odd job" tractor, that"s a good combo as is.
A few things to check if it"s a fuel hog.
Make certain the mechanical advance works freely.
Solid core wires and Pertronix points replacement with Autolite 3116 .
Check the aircleaner for being dimpled in or plugged with dirt .
An out of adjustment choke can leave the choke blade partly closed even with the knob all the way in.
Set the mixture for as lean as it will run without missing. Instead of as smooth as possible.
 
I would go solid state instead of points. No maintenance and I set my plugs at 45. The engine is worn and fouls a plug occasionally. This is an old loader tractor that I use around the shop and gets started more than it gets run.
 

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