should this 70 start?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have wanted a 2 cyl Deere for a long time, and have found a 70gas near home that belongs to an out-of-town seller. I am only going to get to see it for a few hours tomorrow. The tractor has been sitting in storage 3-4 yrs without starting. It probably had gasahol in it last. If I put a good battery and some fresh gas in it, should I expect it to start? If not, how can I know what it's worth? The widow of previous owner can't tell me much. I don't want to take advantage, but it's sort of a "pig in a poke". The paint is original, tires about 50%. I have experience with old Fords and ACs, but none with Deeres. Thanks for you input.
 
Figure on the tractor not starting but be pleasantly surprised if it does. The only gas that won't go bad in that length of time is aviation fuel. Whether or not it had ethanol in it makes no difference. You will want to change the oil and service the tractor before you would try to start it anyway. If the tractor was at a trader's place you could be "hard ball" on your dealing but if this is a widow you should not take advantage of her. Be fair. In situations such as this I always let the selling party price the item. I tell them to do so and "I'll either take it or I won't". More often than not they will price the item fairly for what it is. If you try to price it for them you risk alienating them or taking advantage of them, neither of which is a good thing to do. The main thing is to be honest, fair, and do not pressure them. Mike
 
Yes, it probably should start. I have one that hadn't been run in over 15 years and it started the within the first twenty revolutions of the motor. (It had been in a barn all that time). The one thing I would do is to take a point file with you and a couple of fresh spark plugs, I use the (cheap) Champion D-16's. And by all means make sure it has oil in it. You check the oil by removing a plug that is just forward of the clutch, and ideally, add oil until it starts to run out of the hole with the plug removed, then replace the plug. Also, if possible, turn off the hydraulic pump if you don't have it full of hydraulic fluid, to protect the pump. It is usually done by finding the pump that is on the left side above the flywheel, and rotating the indicator to the "off" position. Any questions, email me, the email is "on". Good luck, Hugh
 
Thanks for the info, Hugh. I'll try your suggestions and hopefully she'll run. I hear that gasahol can really mess with the carb. Any precautions to take there?
 
Do the things HUGH mentioned, and also take an oil can with good squirt pressure and squirt a couple good pumps into the plug holes to lubricate the cylinder walls for cranking. Cranked my 52 G up a while back after it sat for 5 or 6 years. Cylinder walls are pretty dry after that much time.
 
You might consider carrying a couple of empty gas cans to drain the old gas into.

Also drain any old gas from the carburetor.

Don't clean the sediment bowl because it may not reseal and then you have created a gas leak; don't ask me how I know.

As [b:654c4848f0]Hugh McKinney[/b:654c4848f0] recommended below, make sure to check the oil at the oil level test cock.

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If necessary remove the crankcase oil filler cap and add oil through the crankcase oil filler opening located near the distributor.

Add oil until it drips from the oil level test cock.

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Make sure to check the oil in the air cleaner cup; clean the cup and add oil if necessary.

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I have found air cleaner cups completely empty and dry, filled with water, and filled with dead bugs.

Open the oil level test cock to check the oil in the Powr-Trol.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/jameslloydhowell/media/John%20Deere%20Equipment/15/Lubrication/c10b6074-a0ba-4548-9a3a-24464dea40c5.jpg.html" target="_blank">
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If necessary remove the Powr-Trol filler plug and add oil until it drips from the oil level test cock.

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Check the oil level in the power shaft clutch housing (PTO) by removing either of the two filler plugs.

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If necessary fill with 10W oil to the bottom of the threads.

The power shaft shift lever must be engaged to the left for the PTO to operate.

Disengage the tractor's clutch lever and engage if necessary.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/jameslloydhowell/media/John%20Deere%20Equipment/1011/a3cf154a-24ed-4bd1-a0bd-fe1a06d29a90.jpg.html" target="_blank">
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To operate the "live" PTO, pull up on the power shaft clutch lever located on the bottom right side of the battery box.

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Check the position of the Powr-Trol pump shift lever as [b:654c4848f0]Hugh McKinney[/b:654c4848f0] recommended below.

The photo below shows the Powr-Trol pump shift lever disengaged in the OFF position.

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If you test the operation of the rockshaft hydraulics, the Powr-Trol Pump Shift Lever must be in the ON position before the tractor is started.

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Once the tractor is started and running, the Powr-Trol pump shift lever can not be engaged.

Be sure to check the water in the radiator.

Hope this helps.
 
If it"s still original don"t forget it"s a Positive Ground when you hook the battery up. If the Starter is not froze up and the switch is still good I bet it will start surprisingly quick.
 
Wouldn't be a bad idea to crack the drain plug too and let the water out before you mix it in with the oil. They all get condensation in them sitting and you'll likely get a cup or two of water that settled to the bottom that'll drain out before you see oil.

Also take a small gas can... a couple smaller sizes of rubber fuel hose and a couple clamps... asmall bolt to fit in the hoses... and a bungee cord or two or three... This way you could just pull the fuel line... plug it tank side and drop a line in a can of fresh gas to try to run it on and worry about the big tank another day.
 
You might want check if there is any water or other fluid in the cylinders before turning it over to avoid hydro-locking the engine. If there is water in a cylinder the piston, rings and/or the valves may be stuck.
 
Danny, sounds like they have it pretty well covered, only other suggestion I can make is that while you are checking the oil cup on the air cleaner try to make sure there are no rodent nests up in the air cleaner itself...they love that spot, if plugged it'll suck oil, and make ya run real rich. Remember this, if you do all that was suggested here (well most of it anyway, I wouldn't get into the expense of fluids and filters other than to make sure the levels are good before buying), and it's not broken, it will more than likely start, but it probably will not run well...nothing worse for cast iron JD carbs than sitting, they will clog inside with rust, and nothing short of actually cleaning out those passages with a drill bit or wire will get 'em cleaned...including soaking them in carb cleaner for days!
Let us know how ya make out!
 
Just to add my 2 cents, climb underneath and crack the drain plugs for the engine and transmission. Open them SLOWLY until liquid starts to seep out, and place a pan under them. There will likely be some water in there from condensation inside the cases. Let it drain until you get oil.

I bought a 70 that was stored inside once that had almost a gallon of water in the transmission case, and had been sitting for a few years in a barn. They sweat bad on the inside from humidity.
 
"Either of the two plugs"?? The forward plug is for the transmission/differential grease. Power troll oil goes only in the rear plug.
This goes with the photo for power shaft clutch info.
 
James, just to update you on the 70, the lady selling it is very flighty and hard to deal with. I went there prepared to work for 1-2 hrs to try to start the tractor, and she insisted she didn't have time for that. I determined, based on what Hugh told me, that this tractor doesn't have live PTO. That's something I really need, so I think I'll keep looking. The same lady also has a gas 720, but it's really fine and I don't think I can afford it. I hate to make an insult offer. The 720 would have live PTO, yes?
 

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