Moving wheels in on an A John Deere

Using 2 threaded rods with screw on eye,items used like in utility pole construction, couple flat washers and nuts, by the way ,5/8s" rod thru both wheels and a regular size cable hoist spanning across the floor plate and every time you tighten the hoist, cause you are tending to pull off center bump the cast wheel with a block of wood and you should be in buss. PS: Assuming the wheel is free to move first helps. Put the rods thru the SPLIT HOLES in that 6 bolt pattern that attaches the HUB to the CAST WHEEL.
 
Removing the 6 bolts holding the hub to the cast center usually helps relieve some pressure on the axle so it slides "less hard"
 
Beer!!



I always soak them a while in pb blaster, then if your moving them out a big bottle jack with some chain looped through the wheel holes.. If your moving them in a BFH and a piece of hard wood..
Good luck it"s not a fun job.. Soak them good..
 
If you are not using your tractor and in no big hurry, soak the hubs with penetrate of your choice for several days.

Here are a few photos of moving a wheel on "Easy" our 46A.

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Lift the wheel off the ground just enough to rotate it.

You might consider using a grinder with a wire wheel to clean the splines on the axle on both sides of the wheel.

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If necessary, use a file to remove any "mushrooms", flat spots, or pits.

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Take a small hammer and "tap" the hub, apply penetrate, and rotate the wheel; repeat this process for several days.

You can use a small jack to apply pressure to the wheel.

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Move the wheel out a short distance and clean the axle really good where you want to move the wheel.

Raise the wheel higher and "rock " the wheel back and forth towards the tractor using gravity.

Rotate the wheel if necessary and continue "rocking" the wheel.

If the axle is clean and the hub is clean, this method of "rocking" will work.

If you choose to use a large sledge hammer and block of wood, keep in mind that previous owners using big hammers have broken cast iron hubs.

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Hope this helps and good luck moving the wheel.
 

We changed our wheel width twice a year, from Corn Picker width (Wide), to Plow and Cultivator width ( 29 1/2" from center to inside of tire)..
We always use a mid-sized chain through the wheel center slots, looped around the studs on the inside wheel casting and rotated the raised wheel until it slid in where we wanted it..
For pulling them out, the same chain was used, loopd to the drawbar of the other tractor and rotate the wheel to pull it out..
Penetrating oil on the Hub of the jacked-up wheel, rotating it and jarring it with the Brake usually loosened the splines for us..

Ron..
 
Nice pics and nice job. I once messed up 2 cast wheel centers using a red bud torch to free up the pinion gear. NO NO NO. I learned my lession. The heat was concetrated too much on the center of the wheel and tried to expand. Too bad the oute edges of the weel were cool and didnt want to expand. The result = 2 cast centers that cracked like eggshells. We all learn eventually.
 
Glad you liked the photos.

This tractor was very easy to work on; that's why it was named "Easy".

The broken cast hub came off our 43B.

Must admit that I still use a short-handle sledge hammer and wooden block to "move" wheels in just a little.

The last two wheel exchanges on our Model Bs was very easy because of clean axle splines and clean hub splines.

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