B antifreeze everywhere

I put Cool-Gard II in my 1941 B and it hasn't worked out so well. it leaks out the new gasket between the top water pipe and the head, the outer 2 manifold studs, and is somehow getting in the right cylinder and oil. fresh oil change is milky already. I ended up taking the head off because I thought the block was cracked. the pushrod tubes look original so that's the first thing I'll replace. has a new head gasket and the head was torqued down not long ago. right cylinder had half an inch of antifreeze in it. I don't see any cracks in the cylinder. it never had this problem when I ran water in it, I'd have maybe an ounce of water at the bottom of the crankcase when I changed the oil. I plan on installing new pushrod tubes and sealing the manifold studs with Ultra Copper, should I take the block out and have it checked?

would a 3/4" swaging punch work for expanding the new pushrod tubes?

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installed new rings and honed cylinders winter before last as part of restoration, installed new head gasket ran it maybe 5 hours after that on water and no leaks. drained for winter, refilled with antifreeze for spring. didn't re-torque the head, can't really get it hot even working hard since it never had shutters.

was reading another thread on a 51 B and it appears I installed the head gasket upside down :oops: I have a late B block and head and the fire rings were on the block side. I am going to have the head skimmed while it's off.
 
Cover the radiator with cardboard, load the engine, keep it
above 170° for at least 30 minutes preferrably an hour.
Immediately retorque ALL the head bolts. Go through them in
the proper pattern twice.
 
Pretty quick? Are you serious? It sounds like something as easy as opening a petcock up.
I did the re-torque on my B. It is not that simple.
Dont give people the idea that its simple or quick, unless you give the specs on how quick it may be.
It needs to be done, but some weekend mechanics are not going to find this as quick as the rest of us do.
Im just sayin.....
 
I'm still learning my way around these things, pulling the valve cover and valvetrain off to get a torque wrench in there isn't that hard.

I see the B2501R head only has 2 pushrod tubes.
 
Dude its SIX bolts....2 for the carb 2 for the valve cover 2 for the rockers. Torque the head twice, slap rocker assy back on, cover, carb, done. One hour for one guy, loafing. Get yourself the reusable silicone valve cover gasket off Ebay for $20 & save even more time. I just fail to see the difficulty, if you've succeeded in replacing a head gasket & made it run again.....this IS easy (?)
 

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