Fuel Shutoff John Deere 60

Guys,
I am having problems with my automatic fuel shut off not completely shutting the fuel off and also fuel getting into the crankcase through the oil pressure line. Its been rebuilt. Do you guys recommend rebuilding again or trying to put a manual shut off valve somewhere?
 
I do away with the automatic shut offs, pic up a new sediment bowl at TSC, and a 1/4" ball valve..the ball valve is easier on the fingers, and the manual shut off on the sediment bowl stops the flow to clean it..
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Mine came with a manual shut off, that, after 42 yrs. (and a couple of o/h's of the shut off) I did as Tim did, added a ball valve.
 
Don't butcher your tractor up with a cobbled up manual valve. Rebuild your old one but get the parts from a good reputable carb shop like Roberts that specializes in Deere carbs. I've never had trouble with their diaphragms but I have had trouble with the ones from Deere. If the diaphragms are made out of good stuff you won't have trouble again for a long time. Jim
 
Hey Now,,be nice,,if it's done well there is nothing wrong with it,,and good luck finding a good diafram, I tried several, and got tired of wasting gas and oil..besides the early 60's didn't have them any way, they were "cobbled up" and re-fitted with the oil shut offs after they were on the farm a while...
 
Tim S,

Where you able to use the same fuel line to the carb? Did you just make a oil line to go from the motor to the gauge? The reason I am leaning on going to manual valve is due to fact this tractor could sit for long periods of time and I don't want to worry about things going wrong.
 
Yes you can flex the existing line enough to re-use your original fuel line,remove the fitting from the original bowl and screw it into the ball valve and use a short nipple to match the ball valve up to the new bowl, the threads in the fuel tank are 3/8" TSC has a sediment bowl that works well, I got the ball valve from Carr Supply, they were bit hard to find and I can send you one if you can"t find one around there, the nice thing about the ball valve is a quarter turn and it"s off nice and smooth, those Tee handles on the sediment bowl are hard on your fingers and they tend to drip a lot the more you use them..
 
My 1954 60 has a shut off on the dash. My uncle bought it new. Has a rod that sticks through the left side casting next to the dash.
 
Maybe I'm too much of a purist. I did work with a 630 last summer that has been through several diaphragms in the past two years. The last one to go bad was from Deere and it lasted four months. I replaced it with one from Robert's and so far, so good. My 630 has had two diaphragm replacements since dad bought it new in 1960, an I have used that 'evil' ethanol exclusively since the 80's. Go figure. Jim
 
I went through a few different ones in my Parade 60, it seemed that the "Gum" or coating came off of them and the diaphragm looked like a piece out of the screen door, that's when I went to the ball valve set-up..and I do like to keep things "clean" too....
 
Lately on the ones I replace the coating turns to gum like you say. I don't know if its the composition of the diaphragm or the gasoline. Maybe they had to change the composition of the diaphragm because of some ecological thing involving the compound? If someone would come on my farm and look close at all of the tractors, two of them have butchered fuel lines with an automotive fuel filter in them, done by me, but they are not green tractors. OK, now I left the door open. LOL. Jim
 

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