cost for a split - clutch issue - need advice

Hogleg

Member
I have a clutch problem on my 2550 that I really need to diagnose.

For some unknown reason, the input shaft is not stopping completely when I press in the clutch most of the time. Not all the time. Happens more at high speed. Causes gear grinding. Was at the dealer talking about it and they suggested I adjust the free-play (already did). As an experiment, suggested I back off the free play all the way to see if it changes the issue, but not use it that way.

Said the only way to really tell will be to split it. Could be clutch, throwout bearing or the pilot bearing. I have access covers that I can look into. Is there anything else to check or is a split in the future?

What is the usual cost of a split to find out what is really going on. I don't have the where-with-all to split this heavy of a tractor.

According to when I bought the tractor from the same dealer 3 years ago, they had replaced the clutch a few years prior. Don't know if it is true or not, but suspect that the clutch is not that worn.

Not a good issue to deal with at the start of haying season...

John
 
Once in awhile one sticks from rust ? or grease ?
I'd first adjust the free play then try putting it in a high gear run engine wide open and let the cluch out holding the brakes and slip the clutch. Try to get it hot ,but not too hot ? sometimes this burns off some gook and lets them shift better again.
 
Hi Mike, thanks for the reply. Here is some more info based on your comments.

Don't think it is a issue with resting for the winter. Started doing this last year in the middle of the third haying season since puchase, but seems to be getting progressively worse. Noticed it when I back up to drop a bale. Would move to reverse, then leave it in neutral while tying, and then have a hard time getting it back in gear without grinding at pto speed. First two haying seasons this did not happen. Ended up having to drop to idle, put it in gear, then put it in low. If I put it in low first, then tried to set the gear speed, it would grind.

Now I note that it will even do it at times when just motoring around the equip area moving bales, etc at low speeds. Is getting worse. No slippage on clutch occurring that I can tell.

John
 
The pilot bearing "could" be hanging up ,and the pressure plate my be out of adjustment,,and possibly the clutch plate got warped. They are not a bad job to split, I usually hang the front end with a floor crane and use a floor jack under the rear,4-5/8" bolts are the main ones, and don't forget about the 2-3/8" bolts under the battery, I lay the wiring back over the steering wheel...I have a 2030 here for a clutch now, when I get to it I'll post some pics as i go...
 
My shop is just now erected and no floor, so no way to deal with it here.

Wish you were closer...Tim.

So, maybe 4-5 hours for the split and re-assembly? Then an hour for diagnose and R&R of parts? Trying to get a feel for total cost at dealer. Guessing we are north of $500 for the split and an hour more for work inside, plus parts like new bearings, and possibly a new clutch plate? If I split, should I plan on new pilot and throwout bearings, even if not needed for the repair?

Sound right? Guessing if I get out for less than $1000 I will be lucky.

Also worried about them screwing up the internal hydraulic piping...is that a concern?

John
 
I had a pilot bearing go bad in my Dodge on the last road trip. The
needles bound themselves up around the shaft and wouldn't let it
not turn when you put the clutch in. Long story short, a $5 bearing
cost me a day under the truck pulling the clutch to replace.
 
They won"t be near the internal piping, that is in the next compartment back, Yes swap out the bearings, and your about right on the time..I"d be glad to do it for you,but too heavy for UPS....
 
Hey Hogleg,

When you find the problem, please post back. I have a 2750 with the same problem. Some pictures would be nice also.
 

Sure, tractorman. But I will not have pics. Going to have to get someone to do this for me, prob dealer, unless I find a local wrencher who is trust-able.

Sure is an annoying problem, isn't it?

John
 
Wasn't to bad. We were 1350 miles from home when it went out. Had my son along and the guys we were making a pickup at let us use their shop. We started at 10:30 AM and were done with it by 7:00 PM. It was a 4x4 so we got to pull the transfer case also. It happened on a Thursday night and everyone in Walla Wall, takes Friday off it seems so it was do it ourselves or wait till the next week to find somebody. I had all the tools along to do it so it was just a matter of rolling up the sleeves and doing it. Napa had a clutch in stock that was the same brand as was in it so we put a new one in while it was open. Should be good for another 110,000 I hope.
 
Hogleg if you can haul your tractor from salem to just south of olney I have someone that I reccomend. He has his own shop and used to work for the dealer in Olney before they closed. He is reasonable on the rates and does excellent work. If you would like his name and no let me know.
 

Thanks! I can haul. Send info to my email, I will give him a call -

hoglegwilly at gmail dot com
 

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