'63 4010D trans/hyd pump broken bolts&damaged casting

griz50

Member
I'd like to give a description first to see if any of you JD gurus or owners have encountered same situation as me, and perhaps shed some light. It started with some seemingly mild shifting problems, 8th, 7th, 5th, & 3rd gears would almost engage with some gear chatter, but no further. To cut to the chase I did everything by the book plus some tips from 2 experienced local JD techs for shifter adjustments. I next removed the trans top inspection cover. As I tried shifting to see what was happening inside I soon discovered the trans drive shaft had about 1/4" of end play, way too much. I was further advised to first remove the differential/rock shaft housing and check around the trans pump before splitting tractor. The rear drive shaft's bearing cup is backed up against the pump housing which was thought could simply be the problem for the excessive end play. I first noticed the pump was loose away from the trans case about 1/4" and 2 bolts missing. When the pump was removed 2 of the 4 bolt holes in the case around the bearing cup hole were chewed out, plus two pieces of trans cast around the cup hole are broken out, right where the other 2 pump bolt holes are. Bottom line is something really went wrong, and so far I have no idea what caused this. Also the cup is broken straight across in one place, I removed it with my fingers. For those of you who may have an interest in this mess, I plan to post a few pics I hope today or as soon as I can. Gotta run. Thanks :evil:
 
I have seen the differential pin come out and smack the trans pump causing this,,take a close look at the pin and see if it"s in place...
 
How about, some "BLEM" in the past had the tractor split and did not have the clutch splines/pilot shaft lined up and used a wrench on the bellhousing bolts? Is THAT possible?

About 15 years ago, a friend and I found a similar "wreck" in his 3010, had to get a $$$$ case from Pete Engen. We did NOT know it"s history, but figured that is what has happened in it"s past.
 
I'll use this reply to first thank Tim and Jim for their response. To you Bob this is amazing you'd suggest that possibility, because I was about to ask that very exact thing. And yes there was a clutch job done, and yes bell housing bolts were used lightly, the shaft and splines were lined up as best as could be determined. There was some drag or resistance in the last 1/2"-1/4" before the clutch housing was totally together on engine cast. Even then the clutch and flywheel were frequently turned through the inspection or timing hole. If I or we messed this up I'll of course accept that. But what I think you're suggesting is that by drawing the housing together with bolts to the engine cast, that put too much pressure or force via clutch shaft to the trans drive shaft thus causing the damage I described. If so you think that breakage happened immediately, or could that mistake of using bolts later on after the tractor was running caused it? Not trying to put anyone on the spot, I'm just looking for any info I can use to solve this. I already have some tentative ideas to repair the broken cast. For right now I need to get the pics of this taken and ready to post. Back in a while. Thanks again all, Dave
 
Hard to say what happened, for sure, but those little 5/16" bolts that hold the transmission pump (and bearing "cup") in place are pretty wimpy when you think of putting any pressure at all on the top shaft when drawing the engine and clutch housing together with those massive 3/4" bolts.

And ANY backwards pressure on the input shaft is going to be transferred back there if there is a clutch alignment problem. OUCH!
 
Yes Bob I totally understand that now, you also scared me. Just kidding. May I ask, even though it's been 15 years, how much did that 3020's cast housing set him back? Any ways I have some pics I'll try to upload of my disaster. I used an old Kodak easyshare, but I think they'll show what you all need to see.
 
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OK Bob this is all finally, wasn't sure what I was doing with those uploads, sent some to myself here. Oh well I hope everyone can see what happened.
 
Ooh My ,,I see it,,,and it looks bad,,,I"m afraid your gonna be changing the case out...Darn it
 
Seen that happen in the dealership when I worked there 30 years ago. Need to turn the pto shaft as you're working it together. Do not draw it up with the bolts.
 
Yes Tim that scares me, but I was expecting that the more I find out here and inspect that wreakage. I'm checking on salvage cases right now. I guess to write this off and find something positive it is that others who visit here will see what happens when you do something wrong like what we did, maybe they won't make the same mistake.
 
OK Tim, I'll use your post to reply giving you and everyone else the tally in $$$$ on a used inspected and cleaned case, $850, and I pick it up. I was also told salvage people sell a lot of these for pulling tractors.
 
Do you have access to a dummy shaft for the bottom shaft? If you were closer I would swap the case out for you,,it is a bit of a challenge for a first timer...I have done 5 bottom shafts here since Jan.had plenty of practice...
 
By bottom shaft you mean the differential drive shaft in the transmission? Sounds like a good offer, I need to change out everything with the different case, I'm also expecting to find bearings to replace, seals, and possible other parts as well.
 
Ooh yes it will be near like opening "Pandora's Box"...Here are some pics of a similar gear box..
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