JD 4010

I might be able to get 4010 gasser from my soon-to-be Inlaws. The paint and body is mint, rear end and tranny were rebuilt a yr before it was parked, has PTO, 3pt, Loader, and Cab w/ swamp box. The bad IT KNOCKS and has been parked atleast 10yrs.

After so quick reading I see a 4020 diesel should FIT the tractor and a 7700 combine engine will work.

My thoughts are add a Diesel w/ turbo (I can build a manifold to clear body and hyd's), and maybe get a powershift tranny into it. I have a couple turbo's that should work nicely on one of these tractors.

I am just staring out in the custom hay buisiness (family has been at it for 30 yrs) and need a loader tractor that is versitile but I dont have the $ to buy another perfectly running tractor. I would like ~120 hp (what my round baler is rated for). I will also use it to rake and small square bale probably. I am building a work horse and this seems like a proven foundation.

I have a Case IH 8920 that puts out over 225 hp (bent the drive shaft on 250hp pto dyno) that I use for most of my needs but w/o a loader I am at my dad's mecry for loading hay.

I am not scared to modify an engine, I work on diesel engines as a hobby and only own diesel pick ups.

Any thoughts or advice on my plan would be great before I get too many idea's rolling around in my head.

Just rebuild the gas engine. $$$$ money ahead If you don't like it leave it at home and get a deisel for feild work. Gas is also 80 cents cheaper here. Depending on size of bales your running you might be ahead to find a backhoe to load with. Alot faster and much stronger front ends. We hay with a deisel 4010 and 4020 and try to rake with something smaller.

I dont have a way to fill up a Gas tractor in the field. That would take and extra tank and my fuel/supply wagon is short on space already. There are times I dont leave a field/area for 3 days and wont see a fuel station, I can hold another tank of fuel for just one tractor.

I bale 5x6 rounds and 4x4 squares. We used to have a 4020 w/ a loader that was used for stacking and raking.

The 4010 would be my smaller rake tractor compared to my Case. I'm not extremely hard on tractors, I can make the little tractor work.

I wish I could afford to buy a bigger diesel but with a free tractor I figured the 3-4K for an engine would be do able but maybe I'm mistaken. I can't find a decent tractor for under 10K around here.

Sounds like quite a project especially adding a powershift.Making a 125H.P.out of a 50 yr.old 85H.P.tractor can cause realiabilty problems.I would try and find a nice 30 series tractor with Sound Guard cab as they usually are in the $12K range.

I dont actually NEED power shift, thats a want. I can insulate and sound deaden a cab, I do it to pick ups when I restore them. I dont figure any tractor that vintage is meant to be very quiet.

125 PTO HP shouldnt be that difficult or hard on the tractor. 4020's are rated ~100hp and I have seen them dyno higher, I figured the rearends would be the same between the 4010 and 4020.

I wont be using it to pull anything, I have a bigger tractor for that. I would like the option to run the baler if I absolutley had to but thats a last resort, my family has other tractors I can borrow but I dont like doing that.

I figured with all the wear and tear + fuel I have with my Case both raking and baling the fields I could probably afford to build something more adequate for the job until I can afford more. I just dont want to finance another tractor, I have to see my bankers too much already.

Kinda hard to believe you guys think buying a tractor is better than building a tractor you get for free...

You would be better off to get you a 4020 powershift instead of a 4010. To put a powershift in a 4010 you would have to change everything on the 4010 from the engine back as the PS trans housing is totally different from the SR trans housing.

Hey Tanman,

The 4010 is a good tractor. You should diesel this 4010 if you feel the need to do so. Put a loader on it, too.

Just keep in mind - the 4010 was an 85 hp tractor. The 4020 was a 95 hp tractor. Just cause someone claims they're cranking 120 hp out of one doesn't make that person smart. You're adding HP to a tractor with a clutch and transmission that was made to take 85 hp. Does it have a factory Deere front or an aftermarket front end? If it's aftermarket, it may not be strong enough for lots of loader work. A loader will be several thousand and will need to be plumbed into they hydraulics as well. The 4010's PTO is also considered less than ideal. If the bolts come loose and you don't notice, it'll slide out and break - no more back-up baler tractor.

You should know that a "free" or "cheap" tractor can be the most expensive HP you own sometimes. I went this path - bought a 4010 that needed work for what I thought was a good price. I have put an engine in it, a heavier wide front, a new clutch, redid the hydraulic pump and all the hydraulic system (the brakes disintegrated). Since I don't have a shop or the ability to do this work, I had a local shop do it. I'm over 20K into a tractor that isn't worth 6k.

No offense Rockyridge,, but the 4010 and the 4020 share the same clutch and transmission parts, and they all will survive with the normal 100-120 hp that an average 4020 delivers just fine.

We have ran 4020s over 10,000 hours with added power with no problems.I also know of people that had problems the first day.A free tractor doesnt happen very often and the salvage value would be $3500+ so you have a good start and if you can do it yourself and time doesnt count it can be done cheaply.I had a 4020 gas side console and had many calls with people wanting a cheap 4020 to repower.My advice is usually worth what it costs.

(quoted from post at 05:51:32 03/09/13) No offense Rockyridge,, but the 4010 and the 4020 share the same clutch and transmission parts, and they all will survive with the normal 100-120 hp that an average 4020 delivers just fine.

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Thanks for confirming that.

I have 2 loaders for the tractor, a high boy and a JD loader. Currently set up for the JD.

I have my own small shop and my gpa has a 120x80 with water heated and cooled floors, I can find a place to do MOST of the work.

It has the original (looks original) front end, I will likely grab a heavier front from the tractor salvage while I'm parts hunting. I have a stack of weights from a 4020 already.

I will be on the look out for a powershift tractor down the road to replace this one or atleast to use for loading hay, that would be alot smoother operating. The synchro trans will be fine for constant speed raking and small squares, I bet my round baler would make the old gal grunt though, I know it worked my dads old 90 hp 5230 Case IH w/ a N/A 5.9 Cummins pretty good.

I found it a good idea to run 2 similar tractors, this way you just about always spare parts, filters, and know the toold you need. Dad started w/ a 4020 and a slightly newer 30 series, traded in for a set of similar heston MFWD, traded those for my 8920 MFWD and a 7240 MFWD, had a 5230 and 5250 at the same time as the bigger IH's (down sized and sold part of it out to me), now has an MX150 and MX135 bought a yr apart NEW both MFWD.

Since this tracor has some history provided (inlaws are the second owners and had it 20yrs before its engine went) I feel more comfortable than finding a nonrunner at an auction.

If you are planning on this being an interm tractor till you find something better you might better rebuild the gas engine or find a running take out engine, keep it cheap. If you figure you can repower to diesil for 3 or 4 thousand you should add another one or two to it just for the extra suprises that always happen. 4010's have smaller plumbing to the remotes couplers that can effect how fast some things work. The final drives are somewhat lighter than a 4020 and could be a problem down the road with the extra power you want to build into this tractor.

(quoted from post at 08:53:44 03/09/13) If you are planning on this being an interm tractor till you find something better you might better rebuild the gas engine or find a running take out engine, keep it cheap. If you figure you can repower to diesil for 3 or 4 thousand you should add another one or two to it just for the extra suprises that always happen. 4010's have smaller plumbing to the remotes couplers that can effect how fast some things work. The final drives are somewhat lighter than a 4020 and could be a problem down the road with the extra power you want to build into this tractor.

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It will still be a yard tractor if I find something better down the road. I'll go for the diesel still. The tractor will be handy for engine swaps in my trucks lol. The deal with the tractor is I have to give to my fiancee's uncle if I dont want it, I CANT sell it so I might as well keep it and make it the way I want.

Thanks for the info on the final drive, I know we are talking more work but if the final fails for what ever reason (shouldnt since it wont ever see a plow) can a 4020 final bolt in? I called a buddy that buys and flips tractors and he is on the hunt for a beat up 4020 diesel runner, that will become my parts tractor.

I know I am basically talking about taking and changing everything but the frame but its want I want to do so I would appreciate some input on if all of the 4020 (or other series) parts would swap over. I know its not the first time someone built up a worthless tractor into what they wanted but changed everything about it in the process.

Heck, I do this on my trucks all the time, buy one truck for the chassis and the other for the drivetrain and build the truck I want. Farmers get bored in the winter and need projects.

Reading between the lines I'll play the devil's advocate.

I would look at that as a "loaned" tractor rather than a "free" tractor. If your future FIL and uncle still have ownership of the tractor and they expect it to be returned eventually, then just plan that the "loan" can be recalled at any time, with no hard feelings and you just smile and thank them for their generosity. I wouldn't make changes to anything loaned to me without talking it over with the owner first, would you?

Any dealings with family are touchy and can (will) be remembered for the next 50 years. I treat family with kid gloves, even if I sometimes (most times) come out on the short end. You may not have to get along with your in-laws, but your future wife will still have to and you will still have to live with your wife. I wouldn't ruin a new marriage over an old tractor.

In cold climates a gas tractor makes a much better yard tractor than a diesel. Unless you are grinding feed they don't rack up a lot of hours and they even start unassisted at 15 below zero F.

I'd either overhaul the gas engine ($1500 - $3000?), buy the tractor outright ($3000 as-is?) or pass on the tractor.

Good luck.

well there is no father in law to speak of, the tractor is given to my future wife but she has no use for it, the only reason for returning it is because they want it in the family because of the sentimental element. The tractor is mine as long as I want it. I live in Oklahoma and the tractor will be kept inside my shop, starting won't be an issue. I can buy it for $1k but was told not to worry about it under the circumstances. I don't plan on getting divorced again so it will be my toy for the long haul.

OK.

It is best to pay something for the tractor, $100 or $1000. Bill of sale and no one can say you spent $$$ on someone else's tractor. Possession is ONLY 9/10 of the law.

You make a valid point, that way no one can come back saying they wanted it. The uncle that does some farming is the only one in the family that would have any interest and he had is chance and took the running 4230 w/ powershift. I have talked to him about the deal and he said he doesnt have time to fix a tractor he just needs a runner to get the job done since he has a full time job and only farms part time. I've known her uncle for along time, I wished I knew about the niece sooner lol. Hes a good guy.

I will probably buy it and get a bill of sale. I talked to her Gma (she was raised by her Gma and is written into her will like a daughter) and she will think about what its worth to sell it, until recently she was just going to let it sit and rot. She wants to see it used and kept in the family but I expressed my desire to not get it for free but I would keep it and use it for as long as possible.

I bet we settle on 1K and I will pay for it in 2 cash payments (receipts and bill of sale are always a must for any purchase I make)

There is an auction coming up w/ a 1982 4440 w/ loader, duals, quad range, 140hp, 4,500hrs, and is from a guy that has good maintenence practices. He keeps his tractors and all trucks in a barn and takes them to the dealer for EVERYTHING. If it goes for under $20k I will take it home. Its a bit over kill for the job I need but I rearanged some money and rethought some of the priorities and a HD loader and back up baling tractor for under 20K (retail is ~15-17K around here) would be ok. I have a 30ft Great Plains Notill drill that puts a load on a tractor when pulling hills so the 8920 will be stuck on that but I will still have alfalfa to bale in the fall too so a baling capable tractor would be nice and a back up, flat land, drilling tractor could be handy. I still think the 4010 would make a sweet rake tractor though and would be perfect for small squares, most of my baling is custom so I dont have to stack every field. I baled 3K bales last yr, that would kill the 4010's dry clutch QUICK lol

4010 will still be a diesel, not changing my mind there.

First priority is to fix and sell 1 or 2 of my pick ups, I have 3 project trucks on the burner and 2 for sure that can be sent down the road and 1 can make good profit.

I have a small update on this deal. We went over to the new wifes uncles house for a cook out, while our wives were out riding horses we were sitting and bsing when I noticed a faint 4010 sticker on his tractor. I brought up the fact that I thought he had a 4320 and he said the clutch went out so he parked it in their families junk yard. I went and looked it over and called the wife"s gma. She said $2k and I can take both tractors and all their parts. The 4320 is ps, duals, dozer blade, and 15000hrs probably.

(quoted from post at 13:29:59 04/08/13) I went and looked it over and called the wife"s gma. She said $2k and I can take both tractors and all their parts. The 4230 is ps, duals, dozer blade, and 15000hrs probably.

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Sounds like a heck of a deal.

(quoted from post at 13:34:02 04/08/13)

(quoted from post at 13:29:59 04/08/13) I went and looked it over and called the wife"s gma. She said $2k and I can take both tractors and all their parts. The 4230 is ps, duals, dozer blade, and 15000hrs probably.

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Sounds like a heck of a deal.

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She said scrap value for both and I have seen running tractors drive on scrap trucks for $1500.

The 4320 probably needs a lot of work since it has so many hours, the hyd pump and clutch will probably be first on the list after I see if it even runs still. The seat and all of the console needs replaced. There is a lot of oil all over the tractor.

The 4010 I will likely start at the front and work my way back. The engine is for sure knocking but it only has 3500hrs on it. The tranny was rebuilt before the engine went out and the only reason it needs repaired is because they towed it and it wasn't in tow mode.