JD 2520 engine TimS?

My son was given a 2520 that belonged to his grandfather,the tractor had antifreeze in the oil and was sold to a friend who is a collecter.The tractor was completly overhauled and repainted 10-12 years ago and was ran less than 10 hours,it has not been started in 5-6 years.(Dad was killed in a farm accident 13 years ago and this friend just gave the tractor to my son)He went to pick it up today and the engine oil was thick and looked terrible,they cracked the oil pan drain and got water(tractor has anti-freeze in it) we are figuring that it is condensation.He decided to pull the oil pan to clean it up before even trying to start it and while it was off he pulled a main bearing cap and found rust on the crank where the oil groove in the bearing is.Took the fuel cap off and the inside of the fuel tank is rusty.He drained all the fuel and is planning on flushing the tank and adding clean fuel.Also found a small rust trail down the outside of the block coming from the head.Should we even try starting the tractor or should we haul it home and tear the engine down first? Right now the tractor is several 100 miles from home.The tractor has been setting in a large enclosed metal machine shed.The said part is that there a 20 other tractors in the same shed and probaly in the same condition.I know who did the engine work and feel it was done right.Should we pull the bearings one at a time and emory cloth the crank? The bearing show no rust only in the oil groove on the crank.He pulled the oil pump to clean it up as well.Another question is should we add break in oil to it as it has ran less than 10 hours since overhaul? Any thought and ideas on what to do? My son is very disappointed has he has known that when he turned 18 he was getting this tractor but now it has all these problems from sitting. The tractor is in a somewhat warm climate so I think the antifreeze probaly has protected the block from cracking and when he drained the oil no antifeeze only water came out.Thanks Tom
 
He said that it was enough to cover the bottom of a five gallon bucket before any oil came out and the oil was very thick and chunky almost like a very thick milkshake.
 
If it has been sitting that long in a metal shed with little or no running,what you are seeing is condensation. A thorough draining of all compartments should clean it up.You can use a "clean up filter" for the hydraulics after draining any condensation. I would prelube the engine by pumping a quart of clean motor oil into the engine where the oil sender threads in and finish filling the engine.
Get it running and up to temperature for a good hour or so, drain the oil and change the filter and fill it with break in oil and run it for at least 50 hours under varying loads (mowing, discing etc)if at all possible. After the 50 hours drain and refill it with your oil of choice, and a new filter,and a new hydraulic filter. I would also change out the antifreeze, and refill with a diesel rated coolant to prevent cavitation.
 
I agree with MSM, I'm thinking that there is a small amount of light rust on the crank, so it should purge it's self clean, granted it will challenge the integrity of the original O/H a bit, bit it will still live a good life. After running it a while you will know if the water that you found was actually condensation. I have never heard or thought about 'pumping' oil in through an oil port, but it sounds like a good idea,,I'm thinking maybe loading a grease gun up with #30wt oil for the pump?? When water mixes with the oil it does make a "snotty"mess, while you have the oil pan off remove the valve cover too and using a "Suck Gun" (a blow gun that will suck up solvent and blow it out the end) blow down threw the push rod holes and flush off and out all that you can.
 
Just to add to the good advise --while the pan is off --put a pressure test pump on the radiator and watch for leaks -- internal and external
 
Ooh yes Dave I was thinking that and forgot to post it, this could prove the liner seals, I'm still thinking there seems to be a lot of water in her other than condensation,,but it is possible...
 
He found about the same amount of water in the hyd oil but it seperated out more and was not mixed with the hyd oil.It will be flushed and new oil and filter added before starting.He will pull the trans. screen as well.
 
Crank the engine with the fuel off to build oil pressure for 20 seconds or so-or put a guage on it & when you have 20psi let it have fuel. you'll have the bearings full of oil before there's a load on them.
 
I bought a 2520 that had 500 hrs. on the engine. Turns out the block was ruined from cavitation. They had put a considerable amount of stop leak in it which, of course, didn"t last. First I thought condensation then I really started hoping condensation. Expensive - new engine before I got it out of the JD dealer. With the labor costs it wasn"t worth the risk of other options.
 
Thanks to all who replied,he is going to work on it tomorrow and hopes to get it running before loading it for the trip home.When home we will put it to work and see what happens.I will post the outcome after cornplanting or whenever it falls apart.Hopefully it is good.
 

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