60 automatic fuel shutoff

ben70b

Member
how hard is it to rebuild the automatic fuel shut off on the 60?
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Very easy to do. Just mark the positions on the parts BEFORE you tear it apart.

Way !!!! easier then fixing that flat tire with fluid in it. LOL
 
already took care of tire issue, gas tank is empty, drained the gas out thru the crankcase. other than that the tractor runs sweet, makes my 70 look like hell. i know its hard to place value but anyone got any ideas?
 
i was wondering if that was the ticket, just plumb a valve into the fuel line huh? what do i do with the other two smaller fuel lines?
 
Drain fuel tank(loosen fuel line to carb and with line on bowl use it to direct fuel to a container), remove fuel and small oil lines (that open the oil pressure accuated sediment bowl).
Then turn the bowl out (Clockwise). There is a hex section next the tank-use a wrench to get it to start to turn.
Once bowl is removed, mark it with a scratch and note how it is assembled-take a picture or make a diagram on paper. Remove the six screws on top and disassemble (note: the center oil pressure port casting is assembled with concave upward (I think-also there is a little pea sized slug between the diaphram to open the valve when in use). Pull the little retainer clip off the top of the valve, remove spring retainer and spring, pull gas valve from bowl casting. Replace the little seal ring on valve. Clean all parts (be careful to avoid losing the small parts). Reverse disassembly process being sure to include little "slug" that is in bewteen the new diphrams (I use two on each side of oil pressure plate to prevent leak if one diaphram leaks although parts book only shows one diaphram on each side). Reverse disassembly process and re-intall. It is easy to do but you must pay attention to assemble it correctly and with all parts as they came apart.
Make sure it seals after you are done rebuilding it buy putting assembled part back in gas tank, put a little gas in the tank, and see if gas is shut off is working or flows from sediment bowl (with gas nad oil lines removed). If it sill leaks, tear it down and look for the reason it leaks and fix it. This description may be missing some aspects of sediment bowl rebuild, but should help.
 
You need to go to Tractor Supply and get a different fuel bowl with 3/8" thread, then get a 1/4" ball valve. Do away with one oil line and run one from the oil supply to the gauge. I put a 1/4" ball valve in so it is easy to turn on/off,,those darn little "Tee" handles are tough on your fingers.
 
i really like the ball valve idea, i think i will put one on my 70, as far as the 60 goes thats grandpas tractor so i'll have to run his options past him. thanks guys, yall have been most helpful
 

Besides the Fuel shut-off valve, you would be wise to plug the Oil Pressure line, to prevent fuel getting into the crankcase through the oiling system...
I take the Brass fitting off and solder it closed, then re-install it..
Then all you need is a small wedge to slip between he fuel tank and the "Tickler-Button" to get fuel flow..
Ron..
 

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