1973 JD 4230 sleeve pulling

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I am in the process of rebuilding my 4230 after a recent fire under the cab. While I have it apart, thinking about an in frame overhaul to pep up performance a little. I have rebuilt plenty of engines, but never pulled sleeves on a jd 404. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Allen
 
I have done a couple of wet sleeved Deere's and really don't remember having much of a problem with them ? I'm sure I just took a block of wood and tapped on them from underneath and got them to pop up enough to grab them from up top. I think they stick through the bottom a bit.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I believe you are right, just prepping myself so I know what to do once I get in the middle of it.
 
On an in frame you can block a hydraulic jack up to where a 18" piece of 1 inch round stock will line up on the lower edge of the sleeve and push them out like that,,be ready when the first one comes out,,you will be on the wrong end of a "Flush"...
 
Tim. I have a question for you about this very topic of an in frame overhaul on a 4230. I fellow I have gotten to know the past few years had suggested there were some differences between the piston design on Deere's overhaul kits versus others. The key point he made was the piston design through Deere upped the compression ratio a bit, as well as trueing up the head, made cold weather starting better on the 30 series. Is there any truth to that statement? I remember on our 4630, after the sleeves and pistons were replaced (through a Deere dealership), the valves all replaced, and the head was planed, this cold blooded tractor really changed for the better in its ability to start. You knew in the first couple revolutions of the engine, if it was going to start. It starts quite a bit better than our 4640. One additional note: When in doubt about starting in cold weather, we simply plug the block heater in.
 
(quoted from post at 14:18:18 03/18/13) On an in frame you can block a hydraulic jack up to where a 18" piece of 1 inch round stock will line up on the lower edge of the sleeve and push them out like that,,be ready when the first one comes out,,you will be on the wrong end of a "Flush"...

I like to use an early model 4020 load shaft chopped off flat on one end and use the long end of the step on the other end inside the sleeve-- keeps the shaft centered
 
I do the same thing Dave,,I have a stack of old load shafts that I use for all sorts of things,,
 
Other sources have increased compression overhaul kits available. Advantage Engine has a Platinum Performance kit that I have been using. Priced less than Deere and I have been very happy with the results. Reliance offers a Hyper-formance kit that I have not tried but have talked to people that have and they like them. Both kits are available from Hy-Capacity among others. If the head is reconditioned properly that will make a big difference to starting also.
 
On the 531 I'm rebuilding now I had to give a couple of them the ole stick welder treatment- which is the first deere I've ever had to do that on, when I rebuilt allis's for work it was pretty common with those. I like TimS method for a inframe, even though I would rather just pull the motor and have it on the engine stand and be done.
 
I once had a piece made that fit up into the sleeve and was a bit smaller than the OD of the sleeve with a bushing welded to the center of it for a shaft to fit into, this gave me a nice straight place to push on,,But we had a home shop Fire several years ago and it was lost in the fire, Darn it, I have never made another one yet, but it did work nice...using that set-up required removing the piston and rod which can be a chore when there is a lot of crust and a lip in the top of the sleeve.
 
You can make a sleeve puller fairly easily. Make a 'top' piece from a piece of 1/2" steel and a 1/2" hole in the center. Weld 3 legs of heavy bar stock about 4" long and wider than the top of the sleeve to the plate. Make a bottom plate of two plates, one about 3/16 to 1/4" larger than the piston bore, and a second plate about 1/8 inch smaller than the bore, and about 1/2 to 3/4" more narrow than the bore, rounding the ends to the approximate curve of the sleeve. The small plate will keep the large plate bottom centered. Using a long bolt or piece of all-thread, slide the bottom plate down through the cylinder and hook it on the bottom lip or the cylinder. Place the top bracket over the bolt and snug it up, making sure the legs are on solid block casing, and tighten the bolt slowly. It should pop out easily.
 

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