John Deere B Engine Sludge

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hello,

Recently bought a 1942 John deere B that has been sitting for some time in a barn, was told it last ran about 10 years. I power washed it and starting cleaning it up. I drined the oil and removed the filter and the oil was chunky and was sludged up. There was a little bit of water but think that may have been from the power washing. What is the best method to flush out the old oil and sludge? It does not run yet. I am trying to get it ready to start, carburetor needs to be cleaned/rebuilt and I think the magneto should be rebuilt. Any suggestions on cleaning the sludge out of the crankcase?

Thanks,
Brandon
 
Get some kerosene or diesel fuel and fill the crankcase til it runs out the test cock. Leave it sit for a few hours or overnight and then start engine only for a minute or so. The operators manual calls for this and it does work so before anyone says it will ruin the engine, to them i say read the manual. Sometimes i shake the tractor hard also to knock some more loose. I advise against powerwashing as that just blows water into places it is not intended to be.
 
Sounds like you aren't in a panic. As said, put some deisel, kerosene or some Varsol (thinners) and add a qt of ATF. Stir it around some (guessing it has a crankcase cover), let it set for a few days, stir again, let set until you are ready to drain and get in there with scrapers, screwdrivers and such. You can strain the goop and re-use later on your next project. HTH
 
Brandon, about any method of flushing will work pretty well to get the crud out of the engine, which you do want to do. I always have some Hy-Gard left from changing it in my farm tractors. I save it back and use it for a flushing agent. It seems to have strong detergent properties. I overfill a crankcase and then belt up to the tractor (not starting it) and let the oil do it's thing. It works very well. It might not be worth getting a bunch of new Hy-Gard for but if you have some lying around put it to good use here. It works. Mike
 
Thank you for all the information and help. I will get some diesel to add into the crankcase to flush the sludge out.
 
As Mike said, hy gard works well but is expensive if you dont have used around. The good thing about using fuel or hy gard, is that not only does it flush but also will loosen up stuck or frozen parts while its in there.
 
Just remove oil pump and screen and flush it all out the bottom of crank case. These flushing ideas all put the crud around the oil pickup screen. If it is not stopped up it will be by just flushing and breaking all that crud loose.
 
JDG,

What is the method of removing the oil pump? How do I remove the pump, Im new to working on these. thanks for the help.
 
Brandon, the next time you hear someone say "use non-detergent oil in your tractor" all you have to do is show them the sludge in the engine of yours. This is the reason detergent oils were invented in the first place- to get rid of all that gunk at each oil change instead of letting it pile up. Mike
 
Its an IDEA that the factory used. My grandad did it once a year and never had a problem with plugging up the pickup screen. Plus the sump of the crankcase sits lower than the pump and screen, all the sludge goes to the bottom. Dont mess around with the oil pump if your not familiar with the tractors, there are features built into the crankcase to deal with matters such as this.
 
There is round plate on the bottom of the tractor with four bolts in it, this one takes the oil pump apart proper. Wait to do that one after the pump is out. Six nuts around that plate hold the pump to the bottom of the crankcase, but you'll need to undo the crankcase cover on top in order to reach down inside and undo the oil lines connecting the oil pump to the engine.

Now it's time to use a putty knife from above and just scrape the crud out the oil pump hole without wasting a drop of diesel fuel or any other expensive fluids. THEN use a good parts brush with a little fluid and then NEVER flush it as stated since it's now spotless and flushing is no longer needed.

There will be a square tubing drive collar that will fall out when you remove the pump, it is sacrificial in that it is supposed to break apart if there is frozen water in the pump and you try to start it anyway. A friend's hand is nice to hold this part going back together but if you have an upside down bucket and a collection of blocks one guy can manage with some back and forth.

I&T make a decent service manual for a reasonable price if you can still find them - you'll need something along this line eventually if you are asking these kinds of questions.
 
I would not be pulling the oil pump out !

Just take the top crankcase inspection cover off. Very easy if a hand start. slightly harder if electric start. Reach down in there and get as much heavy stuff stirred up and pushed out the drain hole. Then put some kerosene (as it stinks less then diesel) in a pump up garden sprayer and then start flushing around in there and flush it out the drain hole. You can flush off the pump screen very good too this way.
 

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