4020 broken push rod , pto brake update

1967 powershift 4020 - I did a compression test on all cylinders - ranging from 350 psi to 70 psi . 10 psi more on all when oil was applied. We ended up pulling the engine and sending it to an engine shop. number 5 connecting rod bearing was spun and number 5 crankshaft bearing was spun. All piston rings were broken on all of the pistons into 3 pieces!!!! I can't believe that they could still start the tractor. There were holes in the sides of the pistons at the ring grooves that you could stick your finger in to!!! The engine shop told the farmer when he dropped off his engine,"the engine should have been brought in 20 years ago!!!The oil pickup screen was 3/4 plugged with sludge-we are going to plumb a gauge into oil gallery like Tim S did - the engine is all repaired and sitting on the floor of my shop -$4800 later -new camshaft -pump drive gear teeth were worn to a point.
Now the next problem - I regret not checking the pto brake pressure when the tractor was running when it arrived at my place. The pto drives good but will not stop. I checked the linkage to the valve -all is clean and the nut #32 looks tight-the shaft is rotating. According to Tim S, the valve is hardly ever the braking problem, always the brake piston. Is there any point in removing and checking the valve components for broken link or o rings?
I need to bolt the engine back on after I remove the clutch packs and the two bolts to finish the repair, or can I just remove the clutch packs, the two bolts, and remove the section of tractor to repair the brake on a bench?

Ken

I think it"s easier to bolt the engine back in and roll the clutch housing forward. Years ago I did a few with the engine out, I made a lifting device up that bolted on where the cowl bolts on (those 4 5/16" bolts),,it worked okay but it was still kinda awkward to work with. Too bad that you didn"t check that PTO pressure first, Darn it. If I were you I would go through it now and check the brake and piston out, also the PTO clutch, if it"s warp much at all it will drag. Be sure to check that PTO idler shaft that we were talking about a while back, if it worked forward it affects the brake.

You just as well pull the clutch pack and rebuild it and then split at the trans. and replace the pto brake . Shutting off a heavy pto load while the engine is running too fast will take the facing off and or shear the brake pin .There is 2 bolts inside the clutch housing that need removed before you can split at the trans case.

I"m at the same point with mine. Going to check the valve first, but I have an early "65 powershift without the BR port to check. Can you post a bit more about the PTO. Does it run all the time? Does it run when the tractor is first started? Will it ever shut off, certain RPM"s, below above? Did you try to see if it had "pressure" on it, or was it possibly "creep" from oil drag? How many hours are on the engine/PTO.

Mine is going to be split anyway to fix a leak on the trans, but we are going to go through the valve first as it has about 9000+ hours on it. Freshen up any springs/seals and o rings as needed.

I did not run the tractor to test the pto - It was running so poorly, only 5 sets of valves were working, I did not want to run it up to 1900 rpm or something might have let go.
The owner said the pto drove a forage harvester fine but just would not shut off for years already.They tied a 2X4 under the front pto to use as a brake -it just chewed right through the 2X4...
I think it would be best to do the valve as well as the clutch and brake - the tractor has had no attention for a long time -the traction brakes are also worn out.