John Deere D Stuck - Looking for advice

txasylum

Member
I purchased a 1928 D that was stuck. Apparently the previous owner got it running 3 years ago, but hasn't ran it since. The exhaust manifold was cracked and I suspect water leaked into the right cylinder. I have diesel in the cylinders now, but in the meantime I removed the cover to the rods. I removed the bolts to the left cylinder and taped on bolts with a brass hammer. The left cylinder moved about 1/2". I stopped because I did not want to move too far. The left one is still bolted to the crank. I'm trying to break it free by trying to turn the flywheel, but I'm not getting very far. My question is if I remove the head would it be easier to break it free. I'm trying to avoid doing that since the head gasket is about $100.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Bob
 
When I did My A I took the dead off and put a big wood block in the cylinder and hit it with a big hammer. It is important to lube both the front and back side of the pistons. Then if you get it to move back work it... pull it ahead and beat it back. lube every time.
 
When I purchased my D-JD several years ago it to was stuck. I filled the cylinders full of kerosene mixed with some automatic transmisson fluid and put a pry bar on the flying wheel and tied a come-along to it in order to apply pressure and left it for a few days. everyday I would rachet the come-along a notch or two, it finally came loose in a boot a week or so. One other time I backed the tractor up to a tree and chained it up and jacked the front end up and the weight of the tractor moved the engine. Make sure the valves aren't stuck so as not to bent a pushin rod. I have used several other methods to free one up, depending how bad it was stuck.
 
I've freed up the valves yesterday. Right now the cylinders are full of diesel. Will this work? How do I drain the diesel out if I need to use a different mixture?
 
That is my plan if I pull the head, but I'm trying to avoid the $100 head gasket cost. Pulling the head is my last resort.

Thanks
 
Save yourself more work and more money. Buy the headgasket and pull the head off. I've seen guys buy $2k stuck tractor and they don't want to spend another dime on it by cheating to get it free with the mystery oil. Long story short. They ended up breaking rings and bending pushrods. $100 for a headgasket is much cheaper then rings and pushrods. Do it right. Pull the head off. Take your time. Good luck.
 
Buy the head gasket and pull the head off. If enough moisture got into the cylinder to lock the engine up, the valves are probably rusted/pitted and will need re-surfacing. You may end up having to pull the block as well to drive the pistons out. Odds are the rings are stuck too. As I've gotten older I've learned to put a price on time and aggravation. You will waste more time pouring different mixtures into the engine trying to un-stick it than if you tear it apart to see what's wrong.
 
I have 31-D that was stuk & because you can"t see "inside" regardless of any movement, taking the head off, disconnecting the rods and remove the block & pistons as one unit is the way to go. You may have a broken ring, cracked cylinder etc...do it & do it right by taking it ALL apart so you know what you have & there is no guessing. Have the block & head mag"d. It"s only $ and you can"t take it with you. Check the oil lines also, mine were full of sludge. You can call me. 508-758-3220.
 
If you end up pulling the block, take it someplace that has a steam parts washer. The type where you put the parts in a cabinet and they get steamed . They'll pop right out after that.
 
Simple to get the diesel out you wick it out as in stick a piece of rag or rope in the cylinder and have the other end sitting lower then the engine and it will slowly wick out. I would do that then fill with ATF and let it sit. BTDT on many tractors and most have freed up. By the way on JDs I jack the front end up about 18 inches so the ATF gets to the top of the pistons other wise it will not and that is needed to free things up
 
I loosened the connecting rods on one that was stuck and worked the flywheel back and forth until it turned all the way around. It runs very good to this day without removing the head. Your success may vary.
 

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