JS 60 Clutch

I just finished rebuilding the clutch on a 1955 60. New facings, sliding drive disk, new disk with riveted facings, new bearing, new t bolts. I have about an 1/4" play in the pulley between disengage and engage when the engine is off. Seems like a lot?.?.? I put new thrust washers on the crank and have about 0.005" crank play. In addition, wwith the engine off, it spins free, when I start the engine it locks up and I can not stop the pully with the pully brake? What did I do wrong????
 
When I adjusted the clutch, I started with the lever in the engaged position and the clutch loose. Take up the bolt until it just engages. Dropped the lever back it free wheels, pull the lever back and the pulley brake engages. When I start the engine, the clutch locks up with the lever back. The pulley brake will engage the pulley, but can't stop it.
 
Your pulley brake is incorectly ajusted. It's alowing you to pull the lever back far enough to re-engage the clutch. With the tractor idling and the clutch disengaged turn the brake ajusting screw in till the pulley quits coasting.
 
Those 60 models are VERY touchy on the clutch as to how much free play you end up with between the clutch being disengaged and the back facing starting to get pinched again trying to keep driving as you pull the lever back.Most other models a simple pulley brake adjustment takes care of this.
A clutch driver disc that is setting back too far on worn splines will make them darn near impossible to get working right.
Ideally the end of the crank should set back inside of the driver at least 1/4" the more flush gets the worse it gets.
I have had to turn some material off the backside of the clutch driver and use a thin facing to try and get them working better without binding up wanting to keep on driving.
 
I had the crank out and put new thrust washers on both side. Crank float as measured with a dial indicator is 0.005". How do you adjust end play different?
 

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