420 hydraulic remote not working.

My friend has a 420 JD tractor not lawn mower, that has a malfunctioning remote. When you connect an implement and try to operate the motor lugs way down and there is oil coming from the spool seals and even after it is off it always keeps leaking. He says it was rebuilt when the tractor was restored, and it worked fine than. Can we get a new replacement from JD or is a rebuild better, if so can someone help me out with part numbers.
 
Did the tractor used to operate this hydraulic load without problems?
What pressure is the relief valve set to? iirc 1350psi or so is max.
 
B&D's first question is key.

Is the valve the correct open center one for that system? How bout the return for the open center?
 
I think it has to open center or the tractor would not hardly run right, this is the original valve for this tractor.

Never had a loader.
 
By SVC I assume you mean the remote valve, than it is original. When it was restored it wasn't done in some ones garage it was done by some top JD antique guy he found. It's sweet. I can't imagine it's not 100% correct. I don't have pictures but it looks just like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere-320-330-40-420-430-435-Tractor-Original-Remote-Valve-Kit-/130817919478?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e755b09f6
 
It does the same when I hook up the wood splitter under no load as if nothing was connected and you were operating opperating the valve with nothing connected to the quick couplers.
 
Sorry but I"m having some difficulty following the info. There is a 99.99% probability that the valve has an assembly problem or broken internals.
The valve is going from open Center to a dead head with no relief valve protection when the valve is actuated.
Don"t be trying to use it before re-rebuilding the valve. Too expensive and time consuming to break the pump by ignoring the valve "s problems.
Everybody makes a mistake now and again when working on equipment.
 
I think if I were the owner I would be calling that "top JD antique guy" and quizzing him about the problem. Since he has been in there he should know the history of what he has.
 
gamehunter56474
Are you utilizing the breakaway couplers to attach the wood splitter? If so it's possible that the male coupler tips are the incorrect ones not pushing the poppet balls /tips off their seats thus not allowing the oil to flow. The spool valve type control such as this don't normally cause a lot of problems short of just wearing out.
14585.jpg
 
Thanks for the info. So whats the next step. Where I used to live there was many places to take it to be rebuilt. Now where i am not really an ag community, There is a JD dealership that mostly does lawn and turf but they have a big service department. Can we get a new replacement from anywhere for under $1000, or is the rebuild the ticket.
 
I think it is passing some fluid. Both male and female connectors are the same and with the wood splitter on it it moves the ram a little bit mor like it quivers. As the motor almost chokes off. I'm just afraid of troubleshooting so i don't break the pump or shear the pump gear, etc. I also tried running a hose looped in to out of the quick connects same result. Lots of oil spraying out of the valve when you work it in either direction. At center you wouldn't know there is a problem.
 
One other thing when I first looked at it the Touch O Matic wasn't working either, after determining there was almost no oil in it I put a couple gallons.
 

If the T-O-M doesn't work then it's no surprise that the remote valve doesn't work either. I think you need to get a gauge and check for pressure.
 
The TOM is downstream of the scv . As long as the scv is in the middle/neutral position. The oil should flow unrestricted through the scv valve and to the TOM.
Having the wrong hose tips is a real possibility .
There is still the issue with the relief valve inside the scv body that is not opening to limit system pressure to approx 1040 to 1080psi.
Don"t be hissing around with the thing until the scv valve is properly built and calibrated.
 

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