1941 model b-cylinder question

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I realize this engine is not considered to be a sleeved engine. However, the " cylinder " does project out the bottom of the block and appears to be made separately from the block. Can this cylinder be pressed out of the block or would it have to be bored out ?
 

You can either Bore it to the next useable size or have a Sleeve installed to bring it back to the size you need (or to repair a cylinder)..
The sleeves are not "removeable"..the whole Block is cast as one piece..

Ron.
 
Thanks. I have to decide whether to have sleeved which will let me use original pistons, rods, etc. or bore it oversize and buy new pistons . Guess I will price it and see but would prefer to go back with standard bore.
 
Why standard bore? I would expect a bore job to oversize to be cheaper than a sleeve job to standard because of fitting of the sleeves and cost of sleeves. You'd old pistons will have wear in the ring lands. Your old pistons are low compression also.

My suggestion would be to bore to whatever cleans up your block then buy a new piston kit which will be high compression. The new pistons will offer more power and higher efficiency. You can make 5-7 more hp on the same amount of fuel.

You'll also want to get some new wrist pin bushings installed and fitted to your new piston pins.

While you have that head off you might as well have it checked for flatness and have valve seats installed with new valves. It'll keep you from having to open that engine back up for many years to come.

For efficiency and power I would also suggest a gasoline manifold.

With all these improvements the early B may get close to late B horsepower. Most of these suggestions are efficiency improvements. Your B can make 18 HP all day on 25 gallons of gas or 25-30 HP all day on 25 gal of gas, depending on which parts are installed in your engine.
 
Would be cheaper to bore. Then you are just buying new pistons and paying to have block bored and you still use same rods ect....
 
Thanks-I have some things to consider now . Sounds like Oversize may be best route. This old tractor sat outside forgotten for many years[like most i suppose] I finally got her unstuck after only two weeks and she has one clean cylinder and one terrible. I had to cut trees out that had grown through and fight a hive of honey bees which had settled into rear tires just to salvage it. After all that I plan to make her run one day.
 
If that one cylinder is pitted terribly it may be that it has to be sleeved (if .125 overbore doesnt remove the pits), or perhaps a better block may be cheaper in the long run. B blocks are cheap and plentiful.
 
Gonna let a machine shop evaluate and tell me if it is within spec to be bored. Hope to save it if possible.
 
Sometimes It's hard to judge the depth of those pits... It may get bored only to find out that the pits wouldnt clear up...
 
You can put late B pistons in a mid 40's B block. Takes you from 4 1/2" bore to 4 11/16" with no issues. Same wrist pin. Good used late B pistons are easy to come by and quite inexpensive. Its a good way to save some money and upgrade your engine at the same time.
 
Yup, that'd be the case normally, but according to another poster the early B block can be bored all the way out to the late B bore of 4 11/16. If that is the case there is no reason to have to sleeve your block. Just go for the late B pistons. They are cheap and readily available. That would be 3/8 of an inch of bore over your stock 4.5 inch, which I would have to believe would take care of even the worst pitting...

According to the same post the piston pins are the same size so no rod change will be necessary, only new piston pin bushings in your rods.
 
If your going to do it do it right.. Bore it new pistons rings and bearings. Then get the head done and be done with it forever. I would never g into one and not do all to much of a pain to year back into everything.. If its been sitting and is in that bad of shape u are much better off selling or parting it out.. We've bought to manny on a good deal and put way to much in them in rusted junk parts.. Right now were r redoing a 45 b my wife wanted that we got for 500 but it sat out so long all the metal and parts are pitted and junk I wish we would have just parted it and paid 1500-2000 for a good one..
 
Thanks-hope to have the block out of tractor this weekend and pistons seem ready to come out. Been working about a month on freeing the thing up and finally got it to turn yesterday. Absolutely amazed at how much fasteners can rust on an old tractor . Also amazed at what atf,diesel,motor oil, beating on , and patience can do to take one apart !!
 
First-you are absolutely right. However, I am simply doing it for the challenge and I am one of those people who enjoys working and take satisfaction in overcoming a challenge . I realize I could buy a runner cheaper.
 

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