Stuck 4020 3pt cable?

toolz

Well-known Member
Went to hook up my newly aquired plow to my recently finished 4020 today, and the 3pt lever wouldn"t move. Tractor spent some time outside before I got it, and the previous owner didn"t use the 3pt. I"m assuming the cable is stuck. Was too cold to look into it today. It"s an early 4020, so the part number I found is AR26712, about $85 from a Google search. I got a bit harsh with the lever and bent something under the dash, cuz when I pull the lever down, it closes down the throttle. Shouldn"t have done that. How hard is it to replace the cable?
 
Not to bad. The hardest part is you have to take the platform off. If you have someone to help you its alot easier. You have to wiggle, cuss and cock it just the right way off and on.
 
Try this first... My 2510 sticks all the time. Take the dash console top off. Spray PB Blaster on the cable all the way to the rear. Take the bolt out of the cable where it attaches to the linkage at the 3 pt valve on the rear. Probably stuck right there. I then try moving the lift lever forward and back. Spray more. Wiggle more. Should get movement and the cable free up. I have to do mine once or twice every year. I think over the 40 years that rust builds up inside the cable. If you do have to replace it, also take off the switch panel and pull the floorboard. Be sure to check the battery cables while you are there. If they are old then the insulation is probably cracked and the wire has probably corroded.
 
That cable goes down past the foot throttle linkage under the dash it may have came out of a clamp there. The cable could be froze if its that cold there.
 
If you have the time-
I have had good luck getting those cables working again. But it requires complete removal. Hang it up on end with a little hose and funnel clamped to the top end. Keep some penetrant in the funnel. Keep working it so that any moisture and grit is displaced. You can tell when it's getting cleaned up by the color of the stuff coming out the bottom.
I haven't done it, but I've read on here where clamping one end in a drill and spinning it can accelerate getting the lube down through the cable.
 
Just replaced mine on my newly aquired 4020.Removed floor board ,cowl , and pannel next to the seat also on bolted the pedal for the diff lock which helped get the floor board up and out.The hardest was to get the cable back up in the dash area and make the adjustment on the back 3pt valve.
 
Took off the cowl and platform today- I bent the cable at the top end when I got rammy with the lever. Didn"t hurt anything else. The cable looks pretty rusty, so I"m gonna take it off and try to save it. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Once you have it off spray it down good with your favorite penetrating oil,bend and twist the cable to help it soak through, remove the boot at the top,and bottom and try to funnel some in, I have made up a funnel with a piece of a plastic jug and tape to make a little catch that will allow it to soak on down over nite. Another thing is to make sure you get the little tang or notch on the rear anchor point to match up with the groove in the cable, I had one in here the other day that wasn't even close to being in the right place,,and the guy had a Deere dealer instal it, darn it. Keep the cable away form the hydraulic lines too, I some times split a piece of plastic hose and slip it over the cable to isolate it a bit. I should have took a few pictures of that last one for show and tell, I will on the next one...
 
Ours moved but was really stiff. I took it off and soaked it in the parts washer and then hooked a drill up to it and gave it a good work out. Then oiled it up good. That was many many years ago and it is still working.
 

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