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JD 2130 Starter Removal

C

Charles Branch

Member
In another thread I described my problems getting the bad starter off my 2130 with a Woods 1020 FEL. The loader frame reduced the already minimal clearance to turn the bolt and cap screw. I bought a half moon wrench, but it was curved too much, and I couldn't even get it on the nut. I finally went to Advanced Auto to buy a cheap wrench that I could bend slightly. But I first went ahead and tried the straight wrench. I was able to get in on, and could turn the nut a few degrees, but not enough to be able to get another bite with the wrench. However, I tried just turning the wrench over, and discovered that the points were out of alignment just slightly, so I was able to get another bite and rotate the wrench a few more degrees. By my calculations it took about 30 bites with the wrench just to get a full 360 degrees rotation. After about an hour I was finally able to get both the bolt and cap screw off and removed the starter.

Finally, here is my question: Are 12 point box wrenches deliberately made to be slightly out of alignment for just this reason, or did I just get lucky?
 
There is a bit of method to the madness, but wrenches vary from brand to brand, I have worked hard to get bolts with 2 or 3 different wrenches, I also have a drawer in my box with "Home made" bent wrenches,,some times in a bad spot it"s like "milking a mouse" to get a bolt out.. an old mechanic told me once "if it was easy every body would be doing it"...
 
I just changed the starter on a dubuque engine and used a crow's foot for a 3/8 drive ratchet to remove the inside bolt. The crow's foot will have to be fairly sleek and streamlined.
 
Was this an older 2130 with the engine oil cooler under the starter? They are nice! I have made up some different wrenches over the years. Due to my inability to post pictures I will try to decribe it in case you ever need to repeat the job: Obtain a 12" length of 3/8 rod and weld a nut on the end. Buy a cheap 9/16 wrench and cut the box end off leaving about an inch of "handle" weld the wrench to the other end of the rod so it end up looking like a L shape.I also have one with a short handle on the nut end...sort of a "speed wrench.
 
It's supposed to be a 1977 model. SN 238209L. I have had it about five years, and like it a lot. I use it mainly with a grapple rake on the FEL. Only problem is the Load/Depth control doesn't seem to work. On my old 1020, it works well, which is very handy for things like box blade and disc.
 
I have a 2130 and a 2550, same engines. I have had to change starters on both and it works just like you said, flip the wrench both ways to get one notch. Sometimes I have had to use 2 different wrenches switched back and forth to get it done. What is really fun is putting that bottom bolt back in! Last time I put it in place and started the threads holding the bolt with 2 screwdrivers and lots of patience. The mechanic at the local dealer told me he has a crowfoot like the ones described in the other posts. I have to change the starter on the 2550 again as soon as it warms up, and I just might make a crowfoot for myself.
 
You're right that getting the bottom bolt started back in can be a problem. I forgot to mention that I used a very long surgical clamp and a screwdriver to do that. I grabbed the bolt GENTLY over the threads just below the head, and held it in place while using the screwdriver on the head of the bolt to apply pressure. Then, by turning the bolt with the clamp, loosening the clamp to get another bite, and then turning it a little more, it was real easy to get the bolt started. I also used the same clamp to remove the bolt faster once the wrench got it loosened. The clamp I used was an old surplus De Bakey cardiovascular clamp, but those are pretty pricey. You can find similar clamps by Googling "long surgical clamp." I'm including a link to one source.
Long surgical clamp
 
Depending on what is wrong with your starter, often you can change solenoid, brushes, rear bushing and even the winding without removing the starter from the engine.
 
(quoted from post at 16:22:00 01/24/13) Only problem is the Load/Depth control doesn't seem to work. On my old 1020, it works well, which is very handy for things like box blade and disc.
Click to expand...

L/D control probably is out of adjustment on your tractor with SN 238209L. I'd suggest going through the adjustments of L/D mechanism as outlined in the JD service manual.
 
Good idea. I recall having to change the load control shaft to fix a hydraulic leak when I first got the tractor. I'm wondering if we did something wrong in that job. Sometimes when I lower the implement, it will suddenly just rise on its own.

I remember being amazed at the time when I first read how the L/D mechanism worked. I surprises me that they don't all develop leaks, what with the abuse we put on the three point hitch doing things like pushing up privet with a box blade.
 
(quoted from post at 08:15:38 01/27/13) Sometimes when I lower the implement, it will suddenly just rise on its own.
Click to expand...

Does control handle stay where it's set when 3pt raises or does handle move also? If handle moves then the friction washers on handle are worn and need shimmed or replaced.
 
The control handle stays fixed. In fact, the implement often will come back up even while I still have my hand on the handle. It's like it has a mind of its own.
 
(quoted from post at 11:57:45 01/27/13) The control handle stays fixed. In fact, the implement often will come back up even while I still have my hand on the handle. It's like it has a mind of its own.
Click to expand...

In all my years of employment at a JD dealership I never witnessed a JD utility tractor 3pt act as you described.
 
My old 1020 never did that either. My neighbor noticed the same thing when he borrowed the 2130 to go over his field with a chisel plow. Whenever you want to take a vacation to East Alabama, let me know, and I'll arrange a demonstration. :) And I would even let you get the old 1020 running again too. Seriously, maybe I ought to start a separate thread on the strange lift behavior. But I'll spend some time reading the service manual first, so I'll understand better how it's supposed to work.
 
(quoted from post at 17:59:25 01/24/13) I have a 2130 and a 2550, same engines. I have had to change starters on both and it works just like you said, flip the wrench both ways to get one notch. Sometimes I have had to use 2 different wrenches switched back and forth to get it done. What is really fun is putting that bottom bolt back in! Last time I put it in place and started the threads holding the bolt with 2 screwdrivers and lots of patience. The mechanic at the local dealer told me he has a crowfoot like the ones described in the other posts. I have to change the starter on the 2550 again as soon as it warms up, and I just might make a crowfoot for myself.
Click to expand...

This has to be the most insane if not impossible thing. I managed to get the bottom bolt out (because the last guy to put it in only threaded it a quarter inch). But putting it back? I can't see the hole, there's a cable connector the bolt has to pass through, and then these need to be threaded into that invisible hole while there is virtually no way to hold the bolt in place since the space is so tiny.

So, here's my idea. Cut the head off of a longer bolt and thread that in so it acts like a stud. Put the cable on top of that. Then, insert the starter over the new "stud" and bolt it to the top stud, which an engineer was smart enough to make accessible. And then cross my fingers that the stud doesn't come out. And if it does... is it really needed if the top bolt is holding it firmly in place?
 

While spinning wrenches on a starter . Obtain a 2 gauge or heavier cable to run from the batterie s negative down to the top bolt on the starter .
You will be surprised how much faster the starter cranks the engine when power is not routed through 45+ years of rusting sheet metal connections .
 
(quoted from post at 09:36:52 08/30/19)
While spinning wrenches on a starter . Obtain a 2 gauge or heavier cable to run from the batterie s negative down to the top bolt on the starter .
You will be surprised how much faster the starter cranks the engine when power is not routed through 45+ years of rusting sheet metal connections .
Click to expand...

Yes, there's one there, and it turns over great. Thanks for the tip, though!
 
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