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John Deere B won't start

C

CubBoy125

New User
I just completed a motor build on my 1950 B. I had it running great for about a week. I discovered that I forgot to install a gasket on my fan shaft so I removed all of the required components and installed the gasket and reassembled. Now I am unable to get the tractor to start. It just puffs out a small amount of exhaust with each crank. Not sure what I did. I did not remove anything timing related but it sure seems like something is off. Any suggestions?
 
I'm not sure if you could have released the gear contact at the cam and now it's out of time...if it's mag you can easily check impulse....if the shaft shifted to the right when you removed the fan shaft it could be off...I'm not really sure it would have....check the timing....
 
Machinery-Man is quite correct.

If you removed the fan shaft by lifting off the governor from the maincase, it would be quite easy to mess up the timing. You'll have to check ALL the timing marks to make sure they're aligned properly. Camshaft, crankshaft, flywheel, & distributor.
 
(quoted from post at 21:25:33 01/06/13) I just completed a motor build on my 1950 B. I had it running great for about a week. I discovered that I forgot to install a gasket on my fan shaft so I removed all of the required components and installed the gasket and reassembled. Now I am unable to get the tractor to start. It just puffs out a small amount of exhaust with each crank. Not sure what I did. I did not remove anything timing related but it sure seems like something is off. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Like MM said, if you pulled the governor housing, you probalby garfed the timing up. Pull off the 4 bolts on the flywheel side of the governor and check the timing marks.

If they are off, you can pull up and out to get them lined up.

PULL THE DISTRIBUTOR/MAG off BEFORE you put the side cover back on.
 
I agree with the other fine gents. If you raised the governor you may have messed uyp the cam to governor gear timing. Heres how to correct it:

When the flywheels Left Hand Impulse LHI mark is at 3 o clock lined up with the mark on the tractor, set the governor gear (it sets down on cam gear) so the open female drive slot where mag mates into, is flat horizontal fore and aft. Then the mags impulse/start and run timing and lag angle etc needs to be right also

John T
 
If you removed the bearing cap off of the govenor housing without removing the mag you may have jumped time between the gov and mag. When you reinstalled you may have damaged mag drive.
 
You can check the mag timing by pulling the flywheel side spark plug and turning the flywheel slowly until the plug fires and then see if the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up with the mark on the tractor. It's at 3 oclock. Look in the spark plug hole and you should be able to see the top of the piston at tdc.
 
I realized that I didn't mention that the governor housing was not removed. I removed the radiator instead and just pulled the fan shaft out of the governor housing. Figured I would avoid messing the timing up. I did notice that as I crack the tractor over I get gas dripping from the decompression valves. The carb was removed, but not messed during this repair. I simply reinstalled it. I do get small plumes of exhaust from the stack as I crank it over. I also sounds like the engine is almost 'sneezing' every few cranks but won't take off.
 
Check all the simple things first. Are you getting spark? Check to see if you are getting good fuel flow to the carb. Then and only then start with timing etc....
 
If you didn't remove the governor from the crankcase, and didn't remove the dist. or mag., the timing would not have been changed. Removing and reinstalling the carb should not have been a problem, except that the carb could have been tipped at an angle and if dirty could have caused the float to stick. I suspect that that may be your issue. You may be able to free up the float by removing the inlet screen and needle seat and jiggling the needle. Remove the inlet pipe from the air cleaner to the carb, be sure no gas is dripping out of the carb.
 
I did check into the carb. I removed the float and checked the needle and seat. All appeared fine so I reassembled and installed. I then checked then carb settings against my book just to ensure a start. At this point both of my batteries were dead. I have noticed a bit of fuel dripping from then decomp valves but the spark plugs appear dry. Should the plugs be wet if it is getting sufficient fuel? I find it odd that fuel would be dripping from the decomp valves but the spark plugs dry....
 
Hmmm....are you over thinking this? Did you check the spark plug
wires for being criss-crossed? I know there are only two but could
it be something that easy and simple? I don't know, just thinking
outside the box. Sometimes it is the simplest things we overlook.
 
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