Wet sleeve removal on JD 1120

I've gleened alot of info. here, but never really had anything to contribute. Here's something I hadn't seen or heard of before that might help somebody later on down the road:


Recently I had to pull the sleeves to rebuild the 3 cylinders on a late '60's JD 1120 Diesel.
These didn't just jump out when removing the pistons.

Not having the tool, or able to take it to a shop, I was at the head scratching stage when I got a idea-- that worked.

I put a floor jack under the engine, set a oak board with a block of Lead on it reaching up through/around/past the crankshaft. I put pressure on the jack, making sure the only contact inside the block was the Lead tipped board under the edge of the protruding cylinder sleeve.

With a Brass block on top of the cylinder sleeve, and not touching the top/deck of the Iron block, start tapping around the edge. Be real careful and tap firmly with a hammer. The impact of the hammer only touches the top edge of the sleeve. It takes awhile, I spent about 20-30 minutes per cylinder; but the pressure and vibration will pop the sleeve.

You're not trying to pound the sleeve out, just get vibrations going in it like what you feel if you ring a bell and then touch it. The weight of the tractor on the jack will let the sleeve drift out from the bottom.

Glad it worked for you...I have used a similar technique myself as our shop doesn't have the proper puller.It is surprising what a bit of sludge/crud can do to help the O rings bite the sleeves. I have had the front wheels of 4430's coming off the floor before adding a bit of vibration to ease things along.

Sounds like you are trying to get by with an in frame over haul. Pull the cam and followers and replace the cam bearings.
Either return the followers only to the lobes they previously rode on. Or better yet a cam and follower re-grind is cheap.
Use the highest compression piston/sleeve set that Deere sells.
Take a good look at the oil pump and gears. Toss them in the junk if wear is found.