#34 carb stem

Has anyone seen or done a stem repair with a 1/2 bolt and eliminated the spring holding the nozzle up? The bolt is approx 1/2 to 5/8 " long and has a washer attached to the head of the bolt. I have one I took off a parts tractor I recently bought.

I think I have seen what you are talking about. I have a DTLX 71 off a late A on my bench that has what looks like a 1/2" bolt with a jam nut on it up through the float bowl where the nut should be. I have not taken it apart to see what the heck is going on there.

(quoted from post at 10:29:40 12/08/12) Has anyone seen or done a stem repair with a 1/2 bolt and eliminated the spring holding the nozzle up? The bolt is approx 1/2 to 5/8 " long and has a washer attached to the head of the bolt. I have one I took off a parts tractor I recently bought.

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I thought the repair was best made with the shell of a spark plug with the straight pipe thread....The free floating nozzle pressed up with the spring is correct.

I've seen some come into my carb shop with that attempt at a repair. Some have complained the the tractor didn't have its power because the area under the nozzle where the spring goes can be restricted. That area is where the fuel is drawn up during loaded operation.
Also, if the nozzle happens to be free floating, it can drop down far enough to restrict the orifice that the load needle fits into that feeds load fuel to the chamber.
Why not repair it correctly with new threads made in a machine shop and installed correctly?
Personally, I don't like the spark plug idea because if it isn't welded on square with the bowl gasket, the result is a gasoline leak.

(quoted from post at 19:42:25 12/08/12) I've seen some come into my carb shop with that attempt at a repair. Some have complained the the tractor didn't have its power because the area under the nozzle where the spring goes can be restricted. That area is where the fuel is drawn up during loaded operation.
Also, if the nozzle happens to be free floating, it can drop down far enough to restrict the orifice that the load needle fits into that feeds load fuel to the chamber.
Why not repair it correctly with new threads made in a machine shop and installed correctly?
Personally, I don't like the spark plug idea because if it isn't welded on square with the bowl gasket, the result is a gasoline leak.

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Well, Mike, if you don't prep it using a decent vertical milling machine, then you are lost before you begin.

Nate, Mike (PopinJohn) did a phenomenal job on my 71DLTX, and his price and turnaround was unbelievable. He fixed someone elses fix of a fix with a "sparkplug" repair on that one.

I didn't mean that Mike fixed it with a sparkplug, he fixed it properly when someone else used the sparkplug.

(quoted from post at 19:42:25 12/08/12) I've seen some come into my carb shop with that attempt at a repair. Some have complained the the tractor didn't have its power because the area under the nozzle where the spring goes can be restricted. That area is where the fuel is drawn up during loaded operation.
Also, if the nozzle happens to be free floating, it can drop down far enough to restrict the orifice that the load needle fits into that feeds load fuel to the chamber.
Why not repair it correctly with new threads made in a machine shop and installed correctly?
Personally, I don't like the spark plug idea because if it isn't welded on square with the bowl gasket, the result is a gasoline leak.

Click to expand...

I guess I am asking what is the difference between using a threaded sprkplug shell, milled flat, installed onto a broken stem, milled flat, with a guide dowel inside that later gets removed, compared to "correctly with new threads made in a machine shop and installed correctly". Seems to me that the only difference is at what point you thread it. I did it before, and while it is not as simple as slapping it on there, you do have to make sure everything is square, and on my little milling machine, I can fixture it, mill it, drill a dowel guide, and thread a dowel and actually screw it together before brazing, then remove the guide dowel, all on the same fixture mount. So, I'd be interested in knowing about this "correct" method. Do they braze on a blank, then mount it on a plate to make the carburetor true to the world, then thread it? Because being cast iron, I don't see that they are welding it, as most folks can't delicately weld cast iron, nickle is too hard to machine, and I seem to be the only user of Muggy Weld rod. So do they braze a repair stem on? And is the repair stem steel or cast iron?

We started fixing carb's with a end off a sparkplug back in 1988,way before these carb place's were even in business.If we did happen to get one a little bit off and it wanted to leak a bit,just take off the gasket on top of the nut,at bottom of bowl, and use a viton o-ring.