4440 Hydraulic Update/Question

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I posted a few months ago with a concern over my hydraulics on 5000 hour 4440 Quad Range I recently bought, they are "buzzing" and 3 pt was raising real quick, although I have decided the 3 point maybe normal and just much quicker than other brands. What I have found after using it is that the first remote gets much hotter than the others, not too hot to touch but much warmer than the 2nd and 3rd. When I raise the 3 pt. this "buzz" stops as the arms lift then returns. It seems to buzz from the remote 1 area. I disked stalks and at first I was using remote 1, unaware of the heat difference. It worked well at first and was fully extending and retracting automatically pretty well, although not perfectly crisp. After an hour it stopped raising without considerable effort/messing around with the lever. Number 2 works perfect. Number 3 works great but is very hard to get the line plugged in, requiring tapping the end with a small hammer. I have a theory knowing the previous owner/history that remote 3 has never been used since new, and 1 has probably been used 99% of the time. Since I got it back home I have been using it to move implements around the farm. Remote 1 works sometimes and others it takes considerable effort to get it to raise, I adjusted the linkage after discovering that it would raise better but only when adjusted much farther, to the point it almost is right at the next detent position to get it to lift. I serviced the tractor and there was a very small amount of what I thought could be real fine metal particles out of the last of the filter, I tried picking them up with a magnet and they seemed to cling, although it was hard to tell exactly given their size and them being in oil. A family friend who has run 30/40 series since they were new thinks maybe it is just somewhat normal Hi/Lo Clutch? liner wear. He didn't see the particles but is going off my detailed description. It is possible they were the "greyish" he describes, I just can't tell for certain. Everything runs and shifts great, except for the remote 1 issue/buzz. If this is a high pressure remote 1 leak then how serious is the issue? I can use the other remotes and never need all 3. I could take it to John Deere this Winter if an internal leak is going to cause more damage, but with 45 bu. corn this year and no crop ins. I'm not exactly looking to spend anymore this Winter than I have to. This is my new workhorse tractor and I'm part-time, will be putting about 100 hours on it next year, no other option. Any opinions are greatly appreciated.
 
My 4320 did the same thing after a guy rebuilt an scv for me. Drove me crazy and I didn't think the heat helped it any. He said he put something back together wrong and fixed it for nothing. I don't know what was wrong in there though. He never said and I didn't ask. I was beginning to think it was something in the 3 point(because the noise went away when it lifted) but it was in my #1scv.
 
If the SCV valve is staying partially open, it would create an internal leak and cause valve to heat up. With a closed center hydraulic system it would also keep your pump working all the time. Probably just an adjustment inside the valve or possibly wear and needing some parts. I haven't worked on 40 series valves, but on earlier SCV the valve adjustment was pretty precise.
 
Sir, The buzzing sound you are hearing and heat you are generating is a high pressure leak inside that valve. The leak can be a packing/oring seal leaking to possibly one of the two pressure valves out of adjustment or a failed pressure valve that is not seating. Any repecal JD mechanic can perform this common repair and adjustment procedure. Have the valve rebuilt. I could do it in a short order if I had it in my shop. Been rebuilding these on a regular basis since 1977.
 
Your right WTW, and just about any farm you go to will have at least 1 or 2 SCV's slobbering or leaking through. I don't use the set up tool I set them by back feeding shop air pressure into the coupler, then I put them on my test bench and pressure test them working a 3X8 cylinder mounted in the bench at 2250PSI.
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Tim, I find this interesting! I too have not used the adjusting plate for "many" years. I tell the green horns when they ask me how I can do that, If you understand how they work and know what you are doing I can get them closer to spec than they can with the tool. I check them with air pressurre after I set them. I set the older ones very simlar to the way you are in the photo. The last dealership I worked at we had a test stand to prssure check them with full operating prssure applied. I always wrote anual service specials to service these as like you said about every farm that had JD tractor around had one that needed attention. Still the best hydraulic control valve JD ever had in my opinoin.
 
here is pre wrote script discribeing my test stand...... To sum it up a bit, I have a 30hp motor spinning a jack shaft at 2,000 rpm"s with a pump on the left end that stays put, I have a shifter that puts it in or out of gear, and the valve between them shuttles the oil to one pump or the other, the other being a pump that will be tested,,the pump that stays put is for providing oil pressure when I"m testing components ..clear as mud,,,there is a charge pump below driving directly off the motor ,,there is a pressure gauge and flow meter on the cabinet to test the pump....there is a manifold at the lower part of the cabinet to hold the couplers in place, the left end is pressure, then the next(pale green) 2 are for testing SCV"s, they go on up to the top of the cabinet to a 3X8 cylinder mounted to a frame,,the next 2 couplers (the yellow ones) go up to a actual 4020 steering motor mounted at the top of the cabinet to test steer valve operation, I mounted a direction needle mounted where a front end would be, the next set of couplers (the brown ones) are for testing brake valves.. then the end coupler (the Blue one) is for return, a truck oil tank,for oil, an old oil cooler off a 7700 hydro for a cooler,,a nifty holding fixture on the far right, and a stainless bench to catch any oil and send it to my waste oil tank,,, mail me and I'll tell you more about it..
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Thanks WTW, Tim, everyone. My next question is about how much would something like that cost, to take one apart and rebuild it? I know that you can't give an exact but with you guys experience whats an approximate idea?
 
That's a pretty sweet hyd. test bench Tim, I assume you built that yourself? I have been in a number of deere shops and went through the JD Ag tech program years ago and we didn't even have anything near that in depth at school even. Saves a lot of time not having to reassemble everything to test components.
 
Yes I did build it myself, been in my mind for several years, I have been considering doing a component re-building program and bench testing and proving would be a "must" for that. I have been using it a lot, it's a bit noisy, I would post a movie clip on here but I haven't been able to get that done yet, If anyone wants to hear and see it run mail me and I'll send them a clip.
 

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