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4020 fuel drain leak ?

H

Heavyduty1

Member
My 4020 was leaking at the fuel tank drain valve, so I replaced the drain valve with a new one from deere. It still leaks, seems to be leaking down the threads. I've tried some pipe thread tape but it still has a steady leak. Anyone else run into this?

I'd hate to have to take that tank out. Also, the original axle has been replaced with a 4430 front end and the axle mounting plate under the tank doesn't leave alot of wiggle room. I could only get 1/8 turn on the wrench. She's old and doesn't owe me a thing, so no cussing was used. Well maybe a couple. :lol:
 
There is a strong chance there is a rust hole and draining down past the shut off,,it"s not that bad to take out, remove it and cap the holes, using a "clean" shop vac with the hose on exhaust duct taped to the fill hole, a squirt bottle with dawn and water to check for leaks...
 
If I find several leaks or I can't fix this one. Would it be wise to go ahead and replace the tank, since it's almost 50 yrs old? Anyone other than john deere, have these tanks?
 

Abilene Machinery http://www.abilenemachine.com/john-deere-tractor-parts-fuel-tanks/

New Fuel Tank
Part Number: AMAR39587
Applications: 4000, 4010, 4020

Replaces OEM Part Number AR39587
 
Thanks for the reply tim s and TX Jim.

$450 for a tank, I don't know. I might just have that tank drain hole welded closed if the threads are messed up from rust. I would still be able to drain most of the tank from the fuel supply line valve that goes to the filters. :wink:
 
If it is the threads ? and not the tank I'd use some hardening permetex sealer on the threads.Have it clean and dry (hard to do I'm sure ) and let set up before refilling.
 
That's a good idea. :idea: Looks like the tank needs to come out to fix it proper. I think I'm going to try that when I take the tank out and get the threads 100% dry. Then check it with a shop vac for leaks.

If that don't work, I'm going to put a bolt in and weld a bead around the bolt head and tank.
 
Very important that you seal the threads on the shut-off valve as fuel will weep down and leak otherwise. I use the high-temp thread sealant Permatex white paste-type stuff from NAPA. They say it's fuel resistant. Install and let set for a couple days. Some say teflon tape is not fuel resistant. Likewise as Tim said there could be rust through at the bottom of the tank if there was water at the bottom for an extended period of time. Best way is to pull the tank and inspect it. Those little leaks will drive your crazy.
 
(quoted from post at 02:17:38 11/21/12) Very important that you seal the threads on the shut-off valve as fuel will weep down and leak otherwise. I use the high-temp thread sealant Permatex white paste-type stuff from NAPA. They say it's fuel resistant. Install and let set for a couple days. Some say teflon tape is not fuel resistant. Likewise as Tim said there could be rust through at the bottom of the tank if there was water at the bottom for an extended period of time. Best way is to pull the tank and inspect it. Those little leaks will drive your crazy.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, jddave. I was planning on using Permatex high-temp thread sealer but it's red. You think the Permatex white paste would be a better choice?
 
My 4520 did the same thing. I pulled the tank out and a large part of the bottom was rusted badly. I had a machine shop cut the bottom out and make a new 3/16 steel bottom for it with a new threaded hole. I paid 150.00 for the repair and put a new piece of heavy duty rubber underneath to replace the old foam padding. It worked great and was a lot less than a new tank. It should be good for another 50 years.
 
I sand blasted mine and coated it with fiberglass body repair stuff. Worked great. Got the idea from an RV guy next door, worked on his RV too.
 
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