4010 Diesel

I"ve just rebuilt the engine on my 4010. It has new 4020 sleeves, pistons, piston pins and bearings. The valves have been redone also. It has a rebuilt 4020 injector pump and I"ve had the injectors adjusted as well. When warm, it starts great and runs great. When cold, it starts hard but it does start but it takes too much cranking to do so. If the injection timing is too late, will that cause hard starting when cold? There is some grey smoke when it starts on a cold day but very little once it is running for a minute or two. I rarely see black smoke even on acceleration or pulling. I think it should start better when cold. Am I right? I think the timing needs adjustment.
 
Who did the valve job? Valve protrusion hieght is critical to good starting.
 
I would expect it to smoke more if the timing is slow. Poor cold starting is indicative of compression issues, did you grind valves or replace valves and seats.
 
We ground the valves. They were in very good condition and needed very little to clean them up. We did not check protrusion. It was a lot harder starting before the rebuild. With new sleeves and pistons, compression shouldn"t be an issue.
 
With the 4020 injector pump the flywheel must be at 12* before tdc due to the speed-advance on the pump, if memory serves. The pump timing is at the "end of injection.
 
I agree with the posting below it is your valves.You can not just grind the valves in a Deere tractor they have to be set to specs preferable to the minium side or they will not start.You have lowered the compressionand even a new engine kit will not make up for it.Years ago we overhauled a 2510 for a neighbor who took the head to an auto parts store where they ground the valves and it needed either to start anytime it was below 40 degrees.Two years latter we pulled the head and took to a shop who did it right and the tractor started great.
 
I would say if it is better starting now, you are ahead. They have never been a good cold starter.

How cold can it be and start without plugging in?
 
If you drop both intake and exhaust valves each .020" you can lose 2 tenths point of compression ratio if valves have been ground before you can lose a half point compression ratio.
I just redid head of 3020 and valves were recessed .100"+. when you go from 16 to 1 compression to 14.5 to 1 they start sorta hard. and if you did not check recesion you have no idea how good or bad they actually were.
I have 4010 that we just "ground the valves" on . starts hard needs seats and valves but makes good power.
 
I started it last weekend. It was in the 50"s. I have an Allis Diesel that starts fine until it hits 40. This one is not as good.
 
Valve protrusion hight is how far the valve sticks up above the gasket surface of the head. Every time the valves and seats are ground the valve sinks deeper into the head. This lowers compression and makes for hard starting, but good running. New valves on the reground seats will sometimes fix it, sometimes it takes new seats and valves, planning the head is another way to bring the gasket surface down closer to the valve seat. This problem is not as noticable on a gas engine as a diesil.
 

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