JD1020 Starting Issue

Tractor starts and runs fine IF I can get the motor to turn over. New battery and fully charged. Sometimes no turnover at all. Can go back 10 minutes later and sometimes it will turn over but slowly. Sometimes that "solenoid" kind of sound. This has been gradually getting worse over time. What is the most likely problem in your opinion? Should I just replace the starter and solenoid? Cables seem to be good and not corroded. Sometimes when it does turn over, it keeps getting slower until it stops. Help!

Is the battery ground cable still attached to the rusty/corroded battery box???????? Have you ever checked amp draw on + battery cable or battery voltage while attempting to start engine????

I do not know where the ground cable is attached. I will check that. I have not checked battery voltage or draw while attempting to start. I do have a multi-meter. Would I just hook it across the neg and pos of the battery terminals? What kind of a result should I be looking for?

Sorry, I haven't done a lot of this kind of thing and could use some basic guidance. Not sure how to hook up the multi-meter to get draw or voltage. Thanks for any guidance and your patience!

Checking amperage draw is better that voltage drop but voltage shouldn't get much lower than 10 volts while attempting to start engine. Optimum battery ground connection should be starter mounting bolt or engine block

I assume to measure draw that the multi-meter needs to be in-line on the positive side of the battery. Will a typical multi-meter be able to handle that much draw?

NO

You need to do some basic stuff. Since you asked about how to use the amp meter, I doubt that you have the proper tool to make that test. Stick with the simple stuff. Take off all the cable connections ONE BY ONE and clean them again. When you installed the new battery, did you clean the inside of both terminal clamps? If you did, do it again.

Do you know what a solenoid does and how it looks inside? Basically it is a large copper washer that connects the two large terminals that you see on the outside. Have you tried connecting them yourself on the outside using something like a large wrench that will let you create an electrical connection between them? By doing that you can quickly find out if your starter will turn if the solenoid is bypassed. Starter still does not turn after all the connections have been cleaned and tightened and you have shorted across the solenoid? Pull the starter and take it to a shop and have it tested. If the bearings are gone in it, it won't turn.

The easiest way to diagnose is with a 500 amp rated carbon-pile load-tester. You start by sticking it on the big post on your starter solenoid and other end to starter-ground and dial up the load while watching voltage. If you can get 300-400 amps and still maintain 9 volts - you know the power to the starter is good. If the power IS good, it easier to just yank the starter off and pull it apart for inspection. It's only a 15 minute job and 99% of the time - any problems with be clearly visible. Bad brushes and/or brush holders, solenoid problems, etc.

On a side-note . . . the solenoid on your Deere is the same as used on Chevy/GM cars and trucks from the 50s to the 90s. Complete new solenoid can be had for $18. That being said, it also repairable and has contact disks inside that can be flipped over for a new contact surface.

My starter went on my 300B last month (it's basically a yellow 1020). I yanked off the starter and the brushes and brush holders were fried. I decided while off I ought to go all through the starter. Well -after pricing a new starter drive, bushings, brushes, brush holders, and a solenoid - parts came to $85 (including shipping charges) and it was going to take a week to get the parts. That because we no longer have any local starter repair shops that stock parts. So, for $90, I bought a brand new, better-technology gear-reduction starter instead. It was here in 2 days. Kind of sad when it's cheaper to buy new then fix the old - but that's the way it is thanks to the 3RD world making stuff.

I assume you don't have a load-tester. Take a VOM or voltmeter. Hook to the big post on the solenoid and ground on the starter. Try to crank and see what voltage is. If it drops to below 9 volts -you've got power problems going up the the starter. If it stays at 11-12 volts - you've got a internal problems in the starter or solenoid OR the solenoid is not getting power to the little "S" terminal with the 10/24 stud and 11/32" hex nut.

If the tractor cranks - but cranks slowly and voltage hovers round 8.5 to 9 volts in warm weather - you might also have a hydraulic pump issue. Deere tractors are prone to the hydraulics making the engines crank hard. Especially when hot.

The brand new starters can be found for $79-$100, but you've got to shop around.

This one is for the 152 diesel used in the 1020 tractor, 350 crawler, 300 tractor, etc.



NEW JOHN DEERE DIESEL TRACTOR STARTER HIGH TORQUE 140-915 6570

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-2842-new-john-deere-diesel-tractor-starter-high-torque-140-915-6570.aspx

Thank you. That was a helpful reply. You are correct that I don"t have the proper meter to measure amp draw on the starter. I"ll try to use alligator clips on the solenoid.

Thanks! More good ideas that I can understand and implement.

It sounds like you are having the same issues I am having. At times the tractor (jd 1020 diesel) would start, other times very low cranking speed, the tractor would almost fire right up but the starter would kick out of gear. I have put in a new battery, new solenoid, new wires and connections going to the key switch to solenoid and to alt, new key switch, pulled the starter off (tractor has a loader on it and what a PITA that was) cleaned up the starter, no burnt wires, a lot of life left on the brushes, no sign of wear on the teeth on the gear drive, put grease on the teeth and on the shaft. Still the same issue. One thing I have noticed is that I have a small current draw on the battery when the tractor is shut off and I can not find it. Where is the best place for the battery to be grounded to?

Run another chassis return cable direct to the starter instead of to the flimsy sheet metal the factory used.
Many of these dual battery tractor starting problems is that only one battery is doing the work and the other is just along for the ride. A dud battery or connection that looks good is common.
The batteries have to be matched in age, size, make and model or they will to varying degrees, self discharge each other.
A person can look at connections all they want but the only way to find all problems is to measure voltage across the connections while cranking.

This tractor only has one battery. The negative cable comming off the battery is bolted to the sheet metal cover where the shifters are...to me seems odd. Its just so difficult to know what other owners did to this tractor over the years. For as many issues that it has, I wouldnt trade it in for a new tractor. Im sorry to say that the new John Deeres are a joke.

(quoted from post at 16:35:19 09/30/12) One thing I have noticed is that I have a small current draw on the battery when the tractor is shut off and I can not find it. Where is the best place for the battery to be grounded to?

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Alternator &/or regulator are a good place to check for a current draw with key in off position. Best place to attach battery ground to tractor is a starter mounting bolt and 2nd best place is somewhere on engine block. you could also entertain the idea of adding a starter relay kit(RE42993) to give more solenoid engagement voltage/amperage.

Thanks for the help everyone. I was able to check the voltage down to the solenoid and had 13 volts. Decided to try start it again and much to my amazement it spun more quickly than it has in a couple of years. Starting right up consistently the last few days. So, I"m not sure what it was up to; but I"m going to leave it alone unless it acts up again.

Open circuit voltage when the battery and cables are not under load are one thing. We need other data too.
Measure voltage from battery post to battery post while cranking. Also measure voltage from the main cable post on the starter to the starter's cast body while cranking.
Get back to us and we will go from there.
Again, the (-) or chassis return connection from the battery to chassis sheet metal is not a good idea. Run that (-) cable or another (-) cable down to a starter mounting bolt.