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2630 Hydraulic Cavitation

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Rob Maloney

Member
Hello.
I am new to diesel tractors, new to FEL. Have a JD 2630--just spent over $2000 on pump rebuild and several other misc. problems. One of which was the FEL would only pick up about half a bucket's worth of dirt. That problem appears to be cured, although it's still not as stout as I think it should be. Anyway, the new problem. Lots of cavitation, or shaking, once the tractor is warmed up..in FEL, three-point, and steering. Steering wheel will even cavitate when warmed up. If I open the RPMs up to 3/4 throttle, it appears to operate better. When I show to an idle, the FEL or three point won't even move. Any suggestions, as this is about to drive me to drink. Good tractor, but lots of hydraulic gremlins. Thanks everyone.
 
I WOULD START AT THE TRANSMISSION CHARGE PUMP AND CHECK YOUR PUMP PRESSURE THE CHARGE PUMP IS THE ONE THAT SUPPLYS THE MAIN PUMP IN FRONT IF PRESSURE IS GOOD. THEN CHECK FOR A LEAK ON ONE OF THE SUPPLY TUBES INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION ALSO CHECK TO SEE IF THE STEEL HYDRAULIC LINES RUNNING ALONG THE SIDE OF THE FRAME HAVE BEEN BRAZED AT ONE TIME HAD A CUSTOMERS UNIT WOULD LOSE HYDRAULICS AND AFTER SOME CHECKING FOUND HE HAD REPAIRED THE SUPPLY LINE AND HAD RESTRICKED THE FLOW FROM THE REPAIR .
 

I agree with Scott on checking the trans pump flow & psi. When frt hyd pump was exchanged was stand-by pressure checked/set. I personally would set it at 2400 psi. What type loader control ind valve or scv's. Ind loader valve could be the problem if not closed-center type? Also a high pressure internal leak can cause problems similar to what you describe. Remove hyd oil filler cap and with engine running,3pt raised look inside hole for spraying oil. Is tractor equipped with ind pto &/or hyd hi-lo?
 
Yes, I did the test with the cap off, 3-point up, and there was a fine mist. Does this indicate an internal leak? If so, what do I do next? Does the tractor have to be split to locate/fix the leak? Thanks.
 
Does the loader use the tractor scv valves and scv connections at the back of the tractor?
Does the tractor have a separate loader control joystick or a pair of valves together up near the loader?
Has the tractor and loader always had this problem?
Manufacture of loader and valves?
I would be hesitant about the tractor shop you used. They throw parts at a machine rather than performing diagnosis.
The front pump won't work without a supply of oil from the trans charge pump.
A Dubuque or Mannheim hydraulic system doesn't work very well if high demand hydraulic loads. Are returned direct to the trans sump instead of to a ported transmission filter cover.
 
(quoted from post at 17:53:12 01/31/11) Yes, I did the test with the cap off, 3-point up, and there was a fine mist. Does this indicate an internal leak? If so, what do I do next? Does the tractor have to be split to locate/fix the leak? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Rob
The rockshaft(3pt) cover needs to be removed and the o-rings & back-up washers renewed to correct the misting. I still think you have other issues causing hyd cavitation.
 
I have owned a 2630 since it was new, & several years ago it started giving the same problems you are describing. When the hydraulics warmed up all hydraulics went to h***. I finely located the problem in the steering valve, the o-rings were bad causing the oil to bypass the o-rings, thus thinning the oil. The next time the hydraulics fail after being warmed up, feel the lower portion of the valve just above the transmission cover, & check for extreme heat. If you find the steering valve to be extremely hot, remove the pressure line from the valve, cap it, & the other hydraulics will return if this is the problem.Of course there are several other points were the hydraulic oil might be leaking internally causing over heating of the oil. I presume you have already checked the hydraulic filter, & screen to make sure they are not plugged. Good luck, Frank
 
Rob,
Oil spray viewed from the fill hole is a strong indication of a high pressure leak. This leak is most likely o-rings that seal hitch control valves. These o-rings are fairly common to fail on these models of tractors. O-rings can be replaced by removing rockshaft housing, turning it upside down and removing cylinder and valve assembly from housing. From there the valve guides around hitch control valves can be resealed with new o-ringss by removing wire snaprings and guides. For someone that has done this before allow three to four hours. Good Luck, DW
 
Thanks to all who have replied. To answer a few of the questions, the 2630 has a Deere 145 loader, the loader valve has the two separate controls (not joystick), the return does go to a ported filter cover. I am interested in the steering valve theory...this would explain the cavitation in the steering wheel and the loss of steering when warm. What's involved in fixing that? Again, thanks to all who have replied. I am a diehard John Deere fan to the core, but not too proud of this situation.
 

Rob Maloney
First thing you need to address/repair is the misting oil in hyd oil filler hole. Then check steering valve for excessive heat caused from hyd oil leaking @ high pressure. A simple steering to hyd system check is to dis-connect/cap PS supply line on RH side and check for improved hyd functions of other hyd's. Also remove ind control valve return hose and check for flow with engine running both ind control valve handles in neutral.
 
The original and replacement orings in this model are not the common black rubber rather made with a harder white plastic like material. Older tractors did use a common looking oring that is subed up to these white colored orings. They are better but still will fail in time. DW
 
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