John deere 4430 hard to start

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
recently purchased a John deere 4430 from an estate auction have been having trouble getting it to start when the engine temp is cold even on warm days after engine has been started it will restart normal any advise on common problems or testing would be appreciated
 
they have a reputation for being 'hard-starters' make sure batteries are good cables are good contacts/connections are good starter is not dragging INVEST IN SOME TYPE OF HEATER FOR COLD STARTS i've just used 110v heater in freeze plug never had any problems but it seldom gets below the teens here
 
What year is it? The older one's had a trip mechinism on the side of the injector pump that needed to be tripped before it would start, they had a little cable to make it automatic, but they didn't work well.
 
I had a 4040 here that I bought new. The lift pump went bad on that one so it wasn't pushing the fuel through the filters and up to the injector pump like it should. Changed that and it straightened it right out.
 
I am with Tim, more times than not if it still has the linkage on the side of the pump (we call them mouse traps) that is suspect almost every time.....

You can use some flat bushings and make it stay out permanantly, or take it off and have the pump shop fix it right.

Also make sure the tractor is spinning fast enough, good batteries, cables, ect...
 
4430's were cold blooded for starting. At 40 degrees they are already slow, they have to crank awhile to start. Also, leave the throttle way back until it starts and then slowly push it ahead to pick up speed. That is how mine always worked. Works great to just plug in the block heater for awhile.
 
To me it does sound like you have injection pump issues or possibly it could be getting low on compression if it has a ton of hours on it. If you do decide that it's not turning over fast enough after checking batteries, cables, etc..I have had good luck using an Iskra starter, they crank considerably faster.
 
I would first check out the fuel shut off that Tim and the others have stated. Then check the battery cables real close. I have had two different 4430s this year with bad cross over cables. Both looked good but when you did a voltage check at each end they where bad. Replaced the cable and they both started better.

Like the others have stated 4430s where a hard starting tractor cold.
 
I had a "74 with that aneroid thing on the side...worked ok unless I kille4ed the engine- would crank all day without starting, til I learned to reach over the hood, push in what I called a "toggle"- then it would start instantly. Tractor was always cold-blooded- one tech told me about adding a washer under each injector, supposed to help start easier.
 

4430's were hard starting tractors when I sold them NEW. I agree with the the others about tripping the linkage on the aneroid so it moves foreword. Also another trick that can help is upon stopping engine,push throttle all the way forward then return to idle. This lets rack in inj pump move to start position while inj pump is still warm.
 
I am not sure what year it is there is a tag on the cab with a serial number I sould be able to get the local dealer to use that and find out for sure right? The battery is weak on it and the cables are not in the best of shape either can I replace them with an aftermarket on from Tractor supply or should the oe ones from JD be used. On the injector pump I only see 2 cables one should be throttle and one is fuel cut off right? Thanks for all your help so far
 
From what "little" bit you have told us I'm thinking the old cables are a major problem,,don't waste your money on TSC cables get the correct ones from Deere, they cost a bit more, but they are worth it, the right size and length are important, "never" use those darn add on clamp style ends,,they should be out-lawed..clean the ground cable end where it bolts to the block, I would replace all three cables and start out fresh and correct. The number on the cab is for the "cab",,not the tractor, the tractor serial plate is up and to the right of the PTO shaft. the injector pump on the early ones has a throtle "rod",a pull stop cable, and a linkage trip cable(a short one that comes around to the side)..The newer ones had a throtle rod and "one" stop cable,,I'm thinking you have an old one....
 
thanks for the help I will get a new battery and cables from jd and see how it acts after that I have noticed a couple of hydrolic leaks on it too one of the rear remotes leaks and also the steering box up front where the linkage is at do they make seal kits for both and are they hard to reseal if so I was planning on getting some repair manuals for it and I don't have much experience with tractors but have worked in the auto field for the past 15 yrs
 
(quoted from post at 09:50:32 11/20/10) I am not sure what year it is there is a tag on the cab with a serial number I sould be able to get the local dealer to use that and find out for sure right?

The tractor serial number tag is on the differential housing just above and to the RH side of the pto. The SN in opening of SGB(cab) is strictly for the SGB not the tractor.

The aneroid that we are referring to is on the outside of the pump. It's a mechanism with a log rod with a spring on it. The long rod mounts horizontal.

As Tim mentioned large good battery cables are necessary for better starting.
 
Why are you ok with spending time and money on batteries and just guessing. They maybe fine and you will be wasting $$$.
Get a voltmeter and test for voltage. You would be angry with your physician if he just guessed and prescribed meds . Without running some tests first.
The hydraulic leaks we speak of are internal that eventually drain back to the trans sump. Power steering, scv's, rockshaft or incorrect mods can leak internally.
Purchase a $15 front pump destroker and find out if that affects starting.
 

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