robert dawson
New User
Is there anyone selling rebuilt power steering pumps for this tractor in the usa, cant find anyone in canada?
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robert dawson
New User
Thanks RobMD
Larry in WNY
Member
Robert,
Parts will run around $450 if you get a new shaft ($230), 3 bushings, 4 seals, new bearing and parts between the pump and fan. If you need new gears, they're $115 each. To do the job once, get a new shaft, bushings, 4 seals, bearing and friction discs at a minimum. You'll pull a lot of parts off just to get the pump out. Not a fun job to do again.
There's a lot of information on this site for rebuilding the pump. The I&T manual and JD SM-2050 will help. Note the old seals are replaced with 2 seals on each side with the inside seals with lip towards the oil and outside seal lip towards air.
Larry
Parts will run around $450 if you get a new shaft ($230), 3 bushings, 4 seals, new bearing and parts between the pump and fan. If you need new gears, they're $115 each. To do the job once, get a new shaft, bushings, 4 seals, bearing and friction discs at a minimum. You'll pull a lot of parts off just to get the pump out. Not a fun job to do again.
There's a lot of information on this site for rebuilding the pump. The I&T manual and JD SM-2050 will help. Note the old seals are replaced with 2 seals on each side with the inside seals with lip towards the oil and outside seal lip towards air.
Larry
robert dawson
New User
Thanks Larry
Pump still putting out good pressure,bushings still tight,just starting to leak,got it apart in 4 hours, should take about the same to put togeather
Pump still putting out good pressure,bushings still tight,just starting to leak,got it apart in 4 hours, should take about the same to put togeather
Robert, make sure you put one seal lip facing INWARD and one seal facing OUTWARD from the pump on both ends. Lap all surfaces with a small file lightly to remove grooves and high parts. Coat all pump mating areas with shellac, but don't get too much on it. CHECK AND MAKE SURE the outer fan bearing is NOT wobbling in the bore, and this is supposed to be a sealed bearing.
Also, there is a good writeup in the January-February Two-Cylinder magazine on P. 40.
An alternative to shellac mentioned in the article is Hondabond 4, a semi-drying liquid-gasket compound available at your Honda dealer. The Person writing the article does not use the two spacers, part number R21720 and his JD mechanic also said to leave the spacers out.
Check the woodruff key slots in the gears and shafts for wear. There is a spare slot in the gears.
I bought the shaft for $90 in August 2003 when I did my 620. Parts are going nuts!
An alternative to shellac mentioned in the article is Hondabond 4, a semi-drying liquid-gasket compound available at your Honda dealer. The Person writing the article does not use the two spacers, part number R21720 and his JD mechanic also said to leave the spacers out.
Check the woodruff key slots in the gears and shafts for wear. There is a spare slot in the gears.
I bought the shaft for $90 in August 2003 when I did my 620. Parts are going nuts!
It's funny how the opinions among the highly quoted but rarely identified or photographed "JD mechanic"s vary from person to person. My JD mechanic told me absolutely to add the spacer, but there's only one, and it goes in the back, governor side. If you want to see it in the parts book, they never got around to updating the 730 and 630 books, but it finally appeared in the revision of the 530 book that is on the parts CD-ROM and on Deere's website. I put the spacer in the last three pumps I did, and it fits fine, so go with what your "JD mechanic" says I guess.
FWIW
FWIW
I think I have some of those spacers laying around ? For some reason I seem to remember the ones I had WAY to large of OD. to fit into the housing ? Or maybe it wasn't enough room for it all and then the projection on the end of the tube housing ? But it has been many years too ! I just cleaned off the green goo from the seal outsides and used hardening permetex or loctite to stick them in from walking out. Same with the diesel transfer pump seals.
I also bought a carbide key cutter to recut new keyway in the shafts that still had good splines and very little seal area wear , but had bad keyway. Was able to save a few that way.
I also bought a carbide key cutter to recut new keyway in the shafts that still had good splines and very little seal area wear , but had bad keyway. Was able to save a few that way.
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