Photos of Roosa-Master Pump Rebuild and a question...

Attached are photos of the Roosa-Master/Stanadyne DBG pump I'm rebuilding, emboldened by the help and advice many of you gave me months earlier.

The rebuild was going very, very smoothly using the injection pump rebuild manual and the parts kit purchased on ebay.

HOWEVER:

The cam advance screw broke as I was torquing it up to the specifications called for in the manual. :-(((

It was going well, then I heard a metallic pop and the bolt head cracked in half. So....

Where do I find a replacement?

I searched the web and on Friday sent an email to these guys: >Link

But haven't heard back.

I have a lathe and could make a facsimile out of stainless, but don't know how I'd make the Bristol socket.

Not much to the Roosa DBG. With a manual and basic tools it went very smooth. Changed the Rotten Flex Ring out with a solid Govenor Weight cage and changed all the seals, set the roller clearance and the timing advance.

Torque'ing that Cam Screw sure made me nervous. Boy 450"lbs feels tight.

All the parts, including the new cage was about $78 and was a lot cheaper than the $450 to $1000 I was quoted from all the shops. It helped having the Overhaul manual (Deere Roosamaster book).

Thanks to folks in this forum and this thread which pushed me to do it myself.

JDB seal kit - Stanadyne # 24371 - Spaco U24371 $12.10 JDB pilot tube - Stanadyne # 16320 - Spaco U16320 $4.83
JDB metering valve - $8
JDB pump vanes - kit 20803 - Spaco 09528
New style weight retainer - maybe U7530 - Roosa # 2043 $11.50

I have one that runs great as long as the return check valve is removed. It occassionally stops it up from flex coupling parts.

Regardless of what you do, usually - any pump that's old enough, or been run long enough to trash the ring will have other issues that ought to be addressed while you have it apart. The brass drive-bushing in front is just about always worn and only costs $8 to replace (called a pilot-tube). Metering valve is often worn also and cost around $12.

That being said, as a Deere mechanic, I replaced an awful of those rings - out in the woods or field - with no special tools at all except for the 6-toothed Bristol wrench for the head screw.

If current contacts for a cam screw don't respond, I will begin to try to find this locally and will use that Spaco number as well.

Thanks!

I have a MIG welder and was planning (hoping/fingers crossed) to insert the Bristol tool into what remains of the cam advance screw crown and weld the Bristol tool into the stub, then back it out.

This is a weakness in the design of this injection pump, is it not?

I've written to Bob with my personal email address. I hope he can supply a couple of new advance screws for a fair price.

After the local John Deere dealer charged me $30 for that small black plastic cap for the rock cover, I decided to seek other routes for parts if possible.

As can be imagined, this is also my first Roosa-Master fuel injection pump rebuild, but the internals looked immaculate. It's possible the pump had previously been rebuilt, don't know. The rebuild manual gave advice on how to check for wear and I didn't find anything to be concerned about.

All that said, again, this is the first pump I've rebuilt and it's untested so I may be back to square one as soon as I get the replacement parts then try to crank the tractor.

(fingers crossed)

Link

This shows the screw before it was reinstalled then broke.

Advise on where to get a new one (or two) will be appreciated.

Thanks!

Depot Parts, in Wisconsin, accessable through your local Deere dealer, has 14 in stock, Deere part # R36646. That is another option, if the local dealer is willing to get them from Depot Parts for you.

Of course, remove the 'nospam'.

Thanks!

Did you get my email? Sorry I forgot to post mine.

bigcoulee@hotmail.com