MT/Tricycle - front-end wobble -need your help bad

Need some help on this one to determine the "real problem" and what you guys have determined when fixing this "front-end wobble".

Here are some observations and questions:

1. Observations: took the worm gear top cover off, then removed the upper shaft with the two pins, then removed the upper support, thus exposing the coupling to the lower shaft w/ rolled-pin. - then examined the two tapered pins in the upper shaft, one was loose, the other not, and both looked very polished and smooth, but no grooves or indentations.

- then put the upper shaft back into the coupling and there was play in there.

- then put the upper shaft into the top support to check for play in the upper bushings; there was some to little, but not near as much as the coupling.

- in a sitting position, pulled on one of the tires and tried pulling and pushing, did not move the pedastal at all [pretty tight]

- then removed the rolled pin from the coupling and lower shaft spline; the pin was very tight. However, could not remove the coupling from the lower shaft spline: tapped it with a hammer multiple times, but no luck...put the pin back in.

2. Questions:

-If anyone has replaced the coupling before M844T, how could you tell if the splines were not worn enough that the coupling would make the difference?

-Has anyone ever replaced the coupling and not got an improvement because the splines were worn or somewhere else has too much play? Did you get a resolution?

-Has anyone ever replaced the bushings in the upper support that the upper steering shaft resides? Did you replace them or Deere? Did the replacement help remove the play? If so, were you satisfied

-when you removed the pin out of the coupling and the lower steering shaft, did the coupling come off the spline easily? If my coupling would not budge, is there something i can do to free it up? Heat?

- when you removed that coupling, can you turn it upside down to determine if the upper shaft spline has less play to determine if the coupling and/or the spline is more worn, or both?

Sorry for the long post, but the wobble is such a pain. I have almost completed the entire restoration of the MT before paint, and this is the last thing...all of your posts, suggestions and experience is immensely appreciated.

I will post back with any questions.

thank you in advance,
tstex

Thanks for the reply...i am convinced i need to buy the coupling [now $140]...did you put the upper steering shaft into the coupling again after you removed the upper support to examine the play between the upper steering shaft spline and the coupling? Did the shaft move very much?

After you took out the pin in the lower spline/coupling, was there any play in the coupling on the lower side?

Was/could there be play with the pin in?

Did you have the inclination to reverse the coupling to upside down and see if that helped reduce, or increase, the play either way?

lastly, how do you tell if the splines on the upper and lower spindles are not worn enought that that getting a new coupling will work and improve the tightness???? Don't you hate the front-end wobble and i bet you felt great when it was resolved.

I also agree with the replacing the pin in the steering shaft that connects to the worm drive...i also took the pin out that connects the steering wheel to the steering shaft, then drilled a hole at the end of the steering wheel shaft [one connected to the steering wheel with the adjustable option that never worked], then drilled a hole in the tubular steering drive shaft and put a bolt through that...now that steering wheel is very tight and does not slide or move on the steering wheel shaft...

Anyway Leon, if you could help answer some of the above questions, it would be immensely appreciated.

Really appreciate your follow-up...i just went ahead and ordered the coupling - i will post back to the board and let everyone know what difference it makes [i am glad to here that the little play in your coupling and splines made a big difference.

We too thought of an alternative to the current coupling. That was to also split one side of the coupling, just like the end of the steering shaft that connects in the worm gear box, then try to drill at least one, maybe two holes perpendicular to the cut [one at top, one at the bottom]and then put a grade 8 bolt through there that was big enough to give the coupling some bite to tighten it up, but small enough to fit into the upper support cavity...kind of what you did with the end of the steering shaft...might be a good fix, and as the coupling starts to wear again, you can just tighten it more.

I am aware of the screw on top of the worm gear box, and it was tighten down enough, any more and it would have felt like a car with power steering when the engine is turned off [lol]

Thanks again Leon, us Dubuque guys have to stick together, right Wayne-in-Tn? Both of you guys have really helped me on this one - my thanks!

Have a great day,
tstex