How do I Identify PTO Parts

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
I want to replace the end of my baler PTO shaft. It's not staying put on the tractor anymore. It slides forward and gets stuck...or it slides back and falls off. It's just all worn and wallowed out.

So...If I want to replace the end and the "star"...what measurements do I make to find parts that fit the remaining yoke on the shaft?

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What your calling a star is commonly referred to as a cross or universal joint. You need to get a set of calipers and measure the diameter of the
one of the bearing caps. Then measure across two of the caps while assembled on the cross to get your spread. Most likely going to be a
metric dimension for both depending on the age of the machine. Once you have those dimensions you will know what splined yolk you need.
 
When I worked for Dana we had a section of one catalog that had PTO yokes in them plus a full page of different crosses. Are you close to a drive line shop?
 
Try these two resources: www.ggmfg.com for G&G Manufacturing, and https://www.weasler.com/aftermarket/aft-na for Weaslers North American driveline page.
 
You need to figure out make "make" and series number your driveline is, there and MANY manufacturers and series designations with minor differences between them, but enough not to interchange.

The link below will download a comprehensive guide (.pdf format), and there's many others out there, as well.
North American drivelines and components
 
Are you sure you need to replace the entire end? Sounds like you could just replace the lock.

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(quoted from post at 08:49:07 08/09/18) Last Cowboy. can look up the part numbers for you. Assume this is for your 276 NH baler?

It IS for the 276, I'm not sure if it's original, though.

As far as replacing just the lock, that might help, but the splines are also wallowed a little. I think that's what is wearing the lock. It has a lot of slop and chatter when cornering.
 
Just the lock parts cost less then $5 at my local farm and home places. I had to work on a lock on a Woods RM550 not long ago due to a bad spring. Found a spring that would work but was not correct.

As for chattering when making a corner that is pretty normal and the sharper the corner the more noise they will make. Never good to make real sharper turns with the PTO running
 
(quoted from post at 11:47:20 08/09/18) Just the lock parts cost less then $5 at my local farm and home places. I had to work on a lock on a Woods RM550 not long ago due to a bad spring. Found a spring that would work but was not correct.

As for chattering when making a corner that is pretty normal and the sharper the corner the more noise they will make. Never good to make real sharper turns with the PTO running

Agreed... Sometimes it's unavoidable to corner a little bit. I have some really irregularly shaped fields. At square corners, I usually go past, disengage PTO, swing around...

I'm familiar with typical universal chatter...but this particular splined yoke wobbles a little on the tractor PTO shaft when it chatters...it's sloppy. More so than usual.
 

The lock pin is cheap...maybe I'll do that to just get through the season. Might work well enough.

At some point, though, either that splined yoke needs to get swapped out, or I need another stub shaft.

The slop in the splines is wearing on my tractor PTO splines...that's not a good situation. Right now, I have a PTO extender on the tractor as a "sacrificial" surface to wear on. I'd rather not have to replace my tractor's PTO.
 
Most any good farm and home place will also have the PTO yoke and all you have to do is match it up as for the fit of the U-joint BTDT more then once on more then just one baler or piece of equipment
 
I've just got back to your post after sending those links this morning. Now I know you are working on an older New Holland, they used two manufacturers Rockwell, and Neapco. One had the lock ring retaining grooves for the cross bearing caps in the YOKE outboard of the bearing caps, and the other had the lock ring grooves in the bearing cap and the ring was on the inboard side of the yoke "ear". I just don't remember which was which. The push pin to lock the yoke to the PTO on the tractor was the same for both. I just checked SMA (TISCO), and A&I and they don't seem to have the old style lock pin that had the clip on the outside of the yoke, just the new Safety Nazi style that you have to "stake" (displace the metal) the hole on the push button side to hold the pin in the yoke. If you have a local dealer that handles Sparex aftermarket parts they do have the old style pins under Sparex part number S.1090.
 
You may be able to get that yoke and cross from New Holland for just about the same cost as a driveline shop. Check Messick's for the parts.

Garry
 
New Holland gets $167.66 for Yoke and $29.34 for the cross joint. A drive line shop may do better on the yoke.

Garry
 
Yoke #34780 and spider is 29214. This is if you have the original shaft which is 1 3/16 inches square.
 
Why can't you use a bolt for the rest of the summer to hold the PTO on the tractor and redo the shaft in the off season.
 
That yoke is available aftermarket for less that half of the OEM price. There is one on e bay. Google New Holland 34780.
 
When you are done replacing the necessary parts, read the book and learn where your drawbar needs to be set. You should have equal distance from your hitch pin to the front and rear yoke on the short driveline shaft.
AaronSEIA
 
(quoted from post at 19:44:15 08/09/18) New Holland gets $167.66 for Yoke and $29.34 for the cross joint. A drive line shop may do better on the yoke.

Garry

Did a very unscientific method of taking the old shaft to tractor supply. Laid it on a shelf next to the PTO parts and visually matched sizes. I also used the type of snap ring as a clue.

TSC part # 270435 (splined yoke) and 2703573 (cross) fit like a glove. 70 bucks for the yoke. 50 for the cross.

I'm going to leave the PTO extender on our Ford 4000. It makes the baler's driveline line up better.

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