New Holland 276, Drive Chain and Tine Bar Wreck Photos

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
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I'm going back to the theory that something like a re-baled slab going through the pickup, combined with a missing stop on the "rice tine" came first and then caused the drive chain to break. Why? Look at the holes in the top of the pickup shield. The rice tine actually punctured the top of the chamber.

And...The mounting bolts for the main drive chain shield weren't loose because they backed out...they were loose, because all three were snapped like matchsticks.

All three have been extracted. New tine bar is in. I had to make a late night run to get new bolts. Re-assembly of the chains and re-timing is up, first thing tomorrow.
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I was complaining about mine - I got off easy compared to the mess you had/have.

The chain drive lever (in your last photo where your index finger is pointed) on mine "split" Its still holding the ends of the chain together but it snapped length wise. Never seen a chain link break that
way. My son thought he could weld to back together but I told him he could do that and we'd keep it as a spare.
 
(quoted from post at 06:32:52 07/30/18) I was complaining about mine - I got off easy compared to the mess you had/have.

The chain drive lever (in your last photo where your index finger is pointed) on mine "split" Its still holding the ends of the chain together but it snapped length wise. Never seen a chain link break that
way. My son thought he could weld to back together but I told him he could do that and we'd keep it as a spare.

Got mine back together yesterday. During reassembly and timing of the main drive chain, I realized that the wreck bent the drive shaft into the tine bar drive gearbox. That shaft also has sprockets that drive the pickup and knotters.

Timing was a "fun" experience as all of the sprockets on the end of the shaft wobbled. The knotter drive chain would go from guitar-string-tight to slack during each rotation of the sprocket.

Same thing with the pickup drive chain.

I had hay down and a rain storm bearing down; so I just put everything together and timed it, ignoring the sprocket wobble.

Baled 400 bales with my fingers crossed without any issue from these chains.

I made a video of the wobble. I'll see if I can post it.
 


At this point I think what you have there is a parts baler. Go find another one and build one decent machine out the the 2. I've basically rebuilt everything on my 68 and you have issues I've never even seen, much less messed with.
 
(quoted from post at 05:59:05 07/31/18)

At this point I think what you have there is a parts baler. Go find another one and build one decent machine out the the 2. I've basically rebuilt everything on my 68 and you have issues I've never even seen, much less messed with.

But, but....it still works.

Seriously though. I think we're going to get through the end of this season and second cut OK with the old girl. I AM going to keep my eye out for another 276 before next year.

I'm also going to put a rev limiter on our Ford 4000 that we bale with. According to the manual, the 276 is designed for a maximum of 80 cycles per minute. I got out the stopwatch yesterday. We're up into the 75 cycles per minute range at about 1600-1700 engine RPMs of our Ford 4000.

I think that the baler is being operated quite a bit with the tractor up in the 1800-2000 RPM range.

That and...80 cycles per minute was the recommendation for the baler brand new. Not nearly 50 years old.
 

Looks like the feeder drive gearbox input shaft is about 460 bucks from Messicks...

Haven't checked with Fry's yet.

But it's still running right now.
 

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