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1012 bale wagon cylinder

M

MSS3020

Well-known Member
I have done a few cylinders in my time enough that I bought a spanner wrench.. had to replace the seals in it. Had a what I call C type wire clamp about 1/4 down inside between outside cylinder wall and inner steel type thing.. Turns out you have to drive the inner steel thingy down about 1/2 inch to expose the wire C. then you can pick the C out and pull/drive the rest of the ram and guts out.. OH hand drive the inner piece without damage as it excepts a seal that the ram runs through.. Got er done but rather work on spanner type.. good experience to know though..

So is that old technology when they made these or??
 
"So is that old technology when they made these or??"

Dunno, how OLD it was at that time, but COMMON.

Did the reseal fix your "spitting oil" problem?

Now that you have experience, how about coming over and helping me with a similar project an the lift cylinder from a LARGE Westfield auger?
 
It did fix the problem.. thanks for the info on original question.. If you lived near I wouldnt mind helping ya out..Its always easier after one learns how to do it..sometimes anyway...

1012 getting that cylinder out was interesting.. Unless I miss something there but I had to release the "garage door type return springs" push the push out feed to relieve the cable, pull the second table pin and pushed cylinder backward to the rear and remove that pin.. Someone used a torch and cut a hole about 2 feet back in the wall where those cable slides/cylinder slides in so you can remove the pin.. didnt look like a factory hole to me anyway..
Trying to line up the pin through the cable slide to the cylinder to the other side cable slide and the lock latch was interesting in its self.. but got er done and ready to rock and roll this weekend..

THANKS for your help.. learning experience last year with this wagon... this year plan to use the stuffing out of it..
 
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