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Roller bearing bad on NH 479 Haybine

S

sfcrusscanter

Member
I thought I would make it rain so I started cutting hay... The top roller bearing on the PTO side went out and the chain also broke. I've gotten the chain parts, so now I'm trying to disassemble the sprocket and then pull off the old bearing race. After a couple hours of working on it, I still haven't been able to get the Gibbons key out. There isn't much clearance to use the gear puller I have to pull the sprocket. Any ideas? I'll see if I can load some pictures.
Russ, in Kansas...
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I changed the top outside one about 3 times on mine before I decided to get a different machine. I remember using a torch to cut out the parts from the old bearing. Don't remember how I got the key out - I think I was able to drive the gear on just enough to loosen the key.
 
It?s a gib key. Clean the shaft between the sprocket and bearing. Put Vise Grips on the key to hold it in place. Drive the sprocket towards the bearing, this will loosen the tapered Gib key. Pull the key out, then pull the sprocket off.
 
Thanks for the advice, I'll try it in the morning when it is cooler and I'm fresher... Will update when I get it off. Once I have it all out I'll order out the parts. Local NH had the bearing as out of stock.
 
This is an upgrade from the old Ford sickle mower I used for five years. Eventually I'd like something built after the turn of this century...
 
If those sprocket teeth are as worn as they look in the last pic, I would take a torch to that sprocket immediately and replace it.
 
Once you get the sprocket off, use a dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut across the bearing race twice, 180 degrees apart. Then use a chisel in the cuts to split it. CAREFUL and watch out for flying steel pieces!

Local bearing house should have bearing and flangettes. How is bearing on the other side???
 
bearing # 20/20A in diagram. available. Messicks has been fast to get the parts I needed to me.
https://www.messicks.com/nh/65853
 
Yep, that was the site I was looking at, just waiting until I got the old parts off before I made the order. It depends on how much I destroy as I fight it. I've already been out working on it this morning, so far, can't even get the Gib key out. Will take it to my bosses shop this afternoon or tomorrow morning and use the torch.
 
I agree, that sprocket is shot. Which means the rest are likely just as bad. No matter how many times you replace the chain it'll stretch again pretty quick..

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Used a smoke wrench, after heating up the sprocket and hammering it back the Gib key came out. Took about 15 minutes more to get the sprocket off. Then another two hours getting the collar and remains of the bearing race out. Got parts on order from Messicks. Normally I work on airplanes, so using a torch isn't really the preferred tool to use.Thanks for all the advice and suggestions.
Russ
 
I got it all back together. I cut my field this afternoon-evening. Next project, pull the cutting bar and replace a broken tooth...
 

You can pull the knife assy, but the way most do this is to either grind off the old rivet on the broken section if it's riveted or unbolt it if it's a bolt on and then bolt in a new section. There are bolt selections made specifically for this at implement dealers, TSC, etc. You may have to unbolt one guard to do this depending on what you have, but it's lots faster than pulling the whole knife assy, and the bolts are superior to rivets IMO.
 
Thanks for the advice, I'll see if I can do it without pulling the bar. When I ordered my parts, I got a few teeth. I replaced a few on my old Ford
sickle mower a couple years ago. The local farm supply store carries a variety of teeth, rivets, and assorted parts. They should have the bolts,
but if not they have rivets. I even have a rivet gun (mainly for doing metal work on airplanes, but it does the job)...
 
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