New Holland 276 shear bolts by the dozen

dhermesc

Well-known Member
The guy who owned the baler before me seemed to be afraid he was going to spend a dime he didn't need to. Apparently he caught the PTO shaft with a tractor tire and bent the *&^% out of everything. He replaced some parts but not others and pretty much made a mess out the whole thing. I found a used PTO shaft and replaced it from the flywheel forward. Apparently I needed to go a bit further. The flywheel has nearly a 1/4" of back and forth play - which is why it went through 8 shear bolts in 140 bales.

It appears all I need to do is pull the flywheel and insert some bushings. How heavy is the fly wheel? It appears fairly simple to remove or am I fooling myself?
 
Two new for me but the older 66 baler you needed help to lift that flywheel. Just one bolt in center of shaft to hold the flywheel on. and there is forward-aft play when mounted tight. Abought 1/8". Helps in removing sheared bolt. Shearing could be from the piece the shear bolt goes into being bent, busted or wore out or just the shear bolt bushing in flywheel worn to let bolt not tighten up. I think the shaft should just bolt to front of flywheel with 3 or more bolts.
 
I don't know about 276 flywheel, but the one on my 282 is pretty heavy, needs to be lifted by hoist or tractor loader. I would suggest changing center bushing on flywheel if it seems a little loose. On my 282 I used washers to remove in and out play in flywheel. other place to check is bushing in flywheel that shear pin goes through, if that is worn it will "wear out" shear pins. Along with that is the arm drive in by flywheel that shear bolt goes through. If hole in it is worn again it will "wear out" shear bolts. Flywheel should not have the foreward and back play. It needs to have enough clearance to move around the drive arm if bolt shears but not slop like you mention.
 
I cannot tell you have heavy it is but I can tell you that you do not want to even try to do it by hand. Good way to go to the hospital trying to lift it with out a hoist. Plus with a hoist you can position it just right for putting it back on. If I where to guess I would say it is well over 250lbs
 
I just had the flywheel center bushing replaced in my 276 last year. I took the flywheel off with a boom pole but 2 strong guys lifted it and set it back on the shaft manually. You may also need to rotate the adjustment nut that positions the flywheel in the gear box. It is on the outside front of the gearbox. Has position holding tabs on the lock ring. The fellow that adjusted mine used a punch and hammer to lightly rotate the big notched wheel. It is hard to explain but will be obvious when you get the flywheel off.
 

I don't know about the 276, but I lifted the FW off my 68 alone. It was a handful. You need to cut the old bushing out and insert a new one. I had help putting it back on. there should be no play in the FW other than the back to front that's taken up by the shear bolt.
 
My dad had a 66. I think I was 6 years old and I couldn?t press the but down on our 1960 460. The bailer before had a Wisconsin motor on it best day ever getting rid of that thing anyway give it 20 more years and the flywheel did get lose for and back did the farmer thing. Just rap some bailer twine around the shaft give it some oil the string was between the warsher and flywheel it would last the season of10000 bails just oil it or new sting. Sure beat taking wheel off
 
I have pulled flywheels off my two JD336 balers. They weigh at least 150 lbs and I used a loader and chain hoist. Use something like that. Safety first. You?ll be glad. Also helps with realignment.
 

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